Skylines Downunder NZ Car Club

Technical => How To's | Tutorials | D.I.Y => Topic started by: b00stinz on February 05, 2013, 06:33:31 PM

Title: Clutch slave cylinder change on R32
Post by: b00stinz on February 05, 2013, 06:33:31 PM
Alright guys due to lack of information everywhere, I've decided to post a How-To on changing the clutch slave cylinder on an R32. I'm sure it can be applied to all skylines that have a push-type clutch.

This job is extremely easy, provided that nothing is seized or wrong with the clutch system apart from the failing slave. I have not included the time to bleed the hydraulic system as part of the job, that is probably the hardest/most annoying part.

Time to complete: 15-30mins
Beers required: 0
Special note: R32 has two different slave cylinders listed at BNT. One has a larger bore size than the other. The standard R32 slave has the smaller bore size (which is what I used, as you can see from the pictures). The larger bore size cylinder is for uprated clutch systems. Nismo for example makes a cylinder with a larger bore size for heavier duty clutches. The clutch slave cylinder at the time of writing, through BNT cost me around $43, with no special discounts.

1. Firstly get under the car and undo the two bolts holding the slave on to the gearbox. After you've taken them off:

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205165933523_zpseb354232.jpg)

(I had taken the slave off and taken the pushrod out before I decided to do a tutorial, so then I put it all back on the gearbox and took the picture but left the pushrod out)


After you've taken the slave off and taken the brake line off the slave, there will be fluid pissing out everywhere. I tried hanging the line facing upwards but the master cylinder emptied itself anyway, so in hindsight, it's better to have a jar there to catch all the fluid instead of dumping it on your driveway.


My old cylinder was completely buggered by the looks of things. I'm glad I did it now rather than leaving it even later. Again in hindsight, I should have done it at the same time as I did the master :homer:

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171513641_zps08f8e282.jpg)

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171349352_zpsfdba44d7.jpg)


New slave:

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171717446_zps23c62043.jpg)

Old slave Vs New

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171812455_zps53c3c7dc.jpg)

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171611261_zps95620283.jpg)


Now it's time to swap the pushrod to the new cylinder. It's pretty straightforward. Slide the boot over the pushrod first and then seat it inside the cylinder, finally sealing it by putting the boot around the cylinder body:

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/CameraZOOM-20130205171832354_zps44723f3d.jpg)


Finally bolt it back onto the car.

Now when you put it all back together, be really careful.
Firstly, when you put the clutch line on, screw it in all the way with your fingers, don't use a ratcheting spanner or any tool. The metal on the slave is very soft, and will easily strip, don't force it. It'll screw in smoothly if all conditions are right, if it doesn't you're putting it in on a funny angle most likely. Screw it in until you feel it won't go any more, then loosen and try again to confirm it's the end of the thread. THEN finally apply the final tightening torque. Just a bit more than finger tight was what I used, the system is designed to seal pretty well assuming you've screwed it in correctly.

Secondly, when bolting the slave to the gearbox, do both bolts with your fingers first. Again the metal is quite soft and will strip. It's the worst place to wreck a thread. Go as tight as you can with fingers, then get to it with a wrench, be gentle again, if you force it, the bolts will strip the head off, leaving the thread inside. :dfinger:

FINALLY, get a hose and hose off the whole area you worked in. Brake fluid will cause much disaster on your car

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/5bd1ef01-11f0-4b93-83a1-de7d70b79af5_zps25138120.jpg)

Ignore the oil around the gearbox, that is for another day :D


Finally you have to bleed the hydraulic system. Follow the steps shown here. Master cylinder, damper box (assuming you still have it), then slave.

(http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn111/b00stinz/Clutch%20slave%20cylinder%20change/ClutchLeak_zps99141629.jpg)
Title: Clutch slave cylinder change on R32
Post by: AGRORB on May 07, 2013, 06:24:51 AM
Heh, must have been the weekend for it :p both my cylinders were a hell of a mess :(
Title: Clutch slave cylinder change on R32
Post by: xxfr on May 07, 2013, 09:35:46 AM
Well done Boostinz. Very well written. Cheers for that, it will be helpful for many.
Title: Clutch slave cylinder change on R32
Post by: b00stinz on May 07, 2013, 09:21:38 PM
Quote from: xxfr;614805
Well done Boostinz. Very well written. Cheers for that, it will be helpful for many.


Thank you :)