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Messages - ExtremeBean

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Nevermind, here's the listing for those interested!

General Skyline Discussion / How much is my R32 worth? Any interest?
« on: June 09, 2015, 11:49:37 PM »
Looking at selling my R32 as i need money and a cheaper daily :(

Would like to know what it's worth. Looking at trademe prices (which have skyrocketed!) I would say around 8k but want opinions/to gather interest here rather than trademe so i don't have to deal with dropkicks.

The car is a 1992 black pearl with 165,000kms, running a low kms RB20DET on factory boost with manual trans (clutch near new), Front mount intercooler, 3 inch stainless exhaust, Tein coilovers, Autostrada Modena 16x7's and 16x8's. Fully serviced and looked after (cambelt, waterpump etc). Exterior a bit average in some spots but just waxed it and for the most part looks really nice! Interior is good apart from previous owners shitty stereo install. All vents etc.

Fully certified and road legal.

Any ideas?
Any interest?  ;D

General Performance / Re: Will R33 diff fit an R32?
« on: March 15, 2015, 12:13:53 AM »
Ok cool so the factory bolts in the front of the 33 diff are the same diameter as the 32 ones? Just longer i assume?

General Performance / Will R33 diff fit an R32?
« on: March 13, 2015, 09:05:16 PM »
As per title, I'm looking at buying an R33 LSD cause it's cheap.

I am aware that they have different backing plates - but have heard the 32 plate will bolt directly onto the 33 diff?
I am also aware that the R33 diffs with ABS are longer - therefore only the non-ABS ones will fit easily?
I have heard that the 2 bolt-holes nearest the driveshaft are much bigger on the R33? Have heard GKTech make bushings for this but can't find them!

Would love to hear from someone who's done this swap before and can confirm that it's not hard! I just need to correct my speedo for cert and this kills 2 birds with one stone!  8)

General Performance / Re: Diff ratios and speedometer readings
« on: March 12, 2015, 10:32:54 PM »
Cool, that's exactly the sorta help i was looking for, thanks! Looks like a 4.3 ratio diff is exactly what i'm after. Know of any for sale? Haha

For reference the car is a 1992 model, so i suppose it would have been just before they started making the 33's which makes sense.

After doing some research it seems the R33 backing plate is different and the ABS units are slightly longer. I will do some more research on the 33 ones i think.

General Performance / Diff ratios and speedometer readings
« on: March 12, 2015, 07:30:19 PM »
I've still got the standard GTS25 auto diff in my R32 which is a 3.5/3.6 ratio (RC35 on the blue plate, so i would assume that's right?), but the engine and running gear has been changed to rb20det - ever since then my speedo has been out a tad, which was never an issue until i went for cert and was pulled up on it.

At 100km/h my speedo reads 80km/h or thereabouts.
At 60km/h my speedo reads 50km/h or thereabouts.

Joe Kyle told me it was down to diff ratio - which made sense to me! He said that a 4.3 ratio LSD would correct the speedo as that's the factory diff for RB20DET's and because it's a higher ratio would increase torque and make the car generally feel quicker and more responsive.

So my questions are these:
Is a 4.3 ratio diff the factory diff found in R32 gts-t's? Google gives me varied answers
Is there anyone who can explain to me the correlation between diff ratio and the speedometer?
Will a 4.3 ratio diff correct my speedo if it was previously a 3.5?
Will an R33 r200 diff fit my R32?

Maintenance & Car Care / Re: timing help rb25det series 2
« on: March 12, 2015, 07:22:56 PM »
didn't see you had an aftermarket ECU - do you know what the timing is on the tune? it may have been tweaked! but 15 degrees is factory so one would assume it's safe

Maintenance & Car Care / Re: timing help rb25det series 2
« on: March 12, 2015, 07:17:55 PM »
On my 20det, the timing light hooks up to a loop of wires that run to cylinder #1 - on yours it might be different being a series 2 25det. but basically you want the light to read the signal from cylinder #1. you can hook up an HT in-between the coil and the spark plug of cylinder #1 and get a reading that way - which is actually more reliable anyway!

Then you just warm the car up and unplug the TPS (make sure the idle is correct! revs really make a difference in what your light will read) and flash the light on the crank pulley. there are 7 marks on the pulley and 15 degrees is the one in the middle. rotate the CAS until it's reading correct.

Not sure what to do about the snapped piece on the CAS apart from winging it, or attempting to fill half of it with something? Don't know!

General Skyline Discussion / Unique Anti-theft ideas
« on: March 06, 2015, 05:01:59 PM »
With all these skylines disappearing and turning into parts, i want to make sure mine is locked down - so i think we should have a thread dedicated to the pros and cons of some anti-theft ideas. I've given a few some thought already:

Steering wheel clamp

  • Cost effective
  • The sight of a clamp is a simple and effective deterrent - making a thieves job slightly harder might just turn them away
  • Quick and easy - just turn the wheels full lock towards the curb then clamp, that way the car can't simply be rolled onto a trailer

  • Notoriously easy to defeat

Wheel clamp

  • Harder to defeat than the steering wheel lock
  • Large, obvious visual deterrent makes it much less likely for a thief to even bother trying to take your car

  • Much more pricey than a steering wheel lock
  • No way near as discreet and easy to deploy as a steering wheel lock
  • Doesn't fit larger width wheels and perhaps some aftermarket ones - would make it a pain to even deploy in the first place

Alarm System

  • Central locking is sweet
  • LED lights in the dash act as another deterrent - the idea that breaking in might trigger an alarm could put a thief off depending on where the car is
  • High end alarms with multiple immobilisers really make a thief's life much harder if they actually DO get in
  • Easy to deploy

  • A badly installed alarm would be near useless if the thief knows anything about wiring/alarm systems
  • An alarm system doesn't physically stop the car from rolling/moving with the handbrake off if a thief can get inside

Kill switch

  • Easy to do. Easy to just splice in switches everywhere and to everything. Fuel pump, ignition etc.
  • Effective at what it does
  • Cost effective

  • It's difficult to place a discreet kill-switch. Running a wire from a factory location to a hidden spot is usually quite obvious, so it would take some time to install a properly hidden switch.

GPS Tracker

  • Excellent for hunting down cars if they've been taken

  • Some trackers rely on battery life - which means running out is an issue, others rely on a constant 12v from the battery - which means obvious wires are an issue
  • It might be difficult to place a GPS tracker in a subtle location whilst still being able to receive a solid signal

Mobile phone as a GPS tracker

  • Hiding a smartphone somewhere with GPS tracking enabled is a unique and cost-effective idea. The Android 'Device Manager' app lets you locate your phones position on a map by logging into either the google site, or the app from another smartphone using the same account as the lost phone
  • Cheap - smartphones can be picked up for as little as ~$50 nowadays

  • Battery life - GPS eats batteries, so it would be advisable to hardwire a car charger into the phone via either the head-deck or a constant power source
  • Phone must be hidden for this to work

Quick release steering-wheel

  • Simple and effective, simply remove the steering wheel and take it wherever you go when you park
  • Unless the opportunistic thief happens to have an identical steering wheel on him, driving the car away is going to be very difficult. Again it would be advisable to turn the steering wheel full-lock one way so even if they do break in, they can't roll it away
  • Because race car

  • I would assume with a collection of vice grips and spanners, a make-shift steering wheel could be made - however time consuming that would be (those with no power-steering might not have to worry here...)
  • If your car is meant to look factory the wheel might cramp your style

Bonnet pins/locks

  • Chuck a couple padlocks on your bonnet pins and it will make life a lot more difficult for any thieves looking to scavenge parts from your hard-earned ride
  • Cheap and relatively simple to install

  • Would imagine this would be easy to defeat with the correct power tools, although this would mean the car would have to be nicked first
  • Bonnet latches/pins look terrible on some cars...

Gear shifter/Pedal locks

  • Another visual deterrent, which would significantly slow down the process of stealing a car
  • Easy to use, simply attach lock and walk away

  • Hard to find here in NZ - no obvious auto/retail stores stock these, might have to be custom built

Chains and padlocks

  • Ability to get creative! e.g. Padlock round the brake pedal, one around the seat/seatbelt anchor and chain together
  • Cheap and easy, ability to create your own system

  • Bolt cutters do exist, however not many people openly carry them
  • Big and cumbersome, it's not easy or practical for some to just carry round chains and locks all the time
  • Time consuming to set up

VIN etching

  • Simple and annoying for a thief to have to deal with a car where the VIN number is etched all over the windows/car
  • Cheap, kits can be bought online easily enough for this

  • If someone is stupid enough to try and steal a car, they are probably stupid enough to overlook this in the rush of "oh meen, anofa free skizza"

What are your suggestions/experiences? Feel free to add to the list!

General Skyline Discussion / Re: question about adjusties
« on: March 06, 2015, 04:08:49 PM »
Oh wtf, that's bs man. Really pisses me off that we can't have nice cars without worrying about lowlife scum trying to steal it. Hopefully you get it back in one piece. We really need to start locking down our skylines more  :-\

General Performance / Setting timing when cambelt is out 1 tooth
« on: February 26, 2015, 12:15:11 PM »
Ok so the timing on my 20det is being annoying,
The exhaust cam is advanced 1 tooth it seems, but i've been told that this isn't a big issue. The only problem is that now the timing readings are all weird/hard to read. I have a timing gun and am looping it round the white wire that sends to cylinder no.1 but i want to know, where should i set it with the CAS?
I know that 15 degrees is normal - but with the exhaust cam advanced 1 tooth, should i be altering the timing a bit to compensate?

Mechanic tweaked it (turned CAS counter-clockwise... so retarded it?) and now it doesn't feel nearly as beefy as it did.

There are 7 marks on the harmonic balancer - the 5th being 15degrees (at least to my knowledge) - where should i set it for best performance/safety ratio! haha

General Skyline Discussion / Re: question about adjusties
« on: February 23, 2015, 11:09:49 PM »
I have Tein coilovers which have the ability to absolutely sack an R32. Wound them up heaps and still needed camber arms

Picture Post / Re: Tom's 1992 R32 GTS25
« on: February 12, 2015, 11:58:23 AM »
Mod list currently:

Converted to RB20DET - 118,000km motor
Front Mount
Full turbo-back 3 Inch stainless exhaust
Tein Adjustable suspension
Truhart Camber arms

More pics when cert is done and i can do some driving  ;) 8)

Forced Induction / RB20DET super slow off boost - timing? wastegate?
« on: January 18, 2015, 07:54:00 PM »
Now that my 20det is up and running i've noticed it's slow off boost. Like not just "haha it's an rb20 that's why" sorta slow, but like, struggles to move sort of slow. It seems to happen when the engine is cold. After a good run on the motorway it doesn't seem to be there/as bad (probably just normal rb20 speed)

Thing is, it's totally fine when it gets onto boost. It'll be sluggish as all hell until the turbo spools and then it just pulls like it should.

The engine is running off a 25de loom and radiator which share all the same plugs so i'm not sure if that'd be the problem.

Mechanic said the timing might be retarded but i checked it when it was at operating temperature and i adjusted it to ~15 degrees, and it still does it.

Could the wastegate be stuck open? Or maybe not closing fully?

Any other switches/electronics that could be causing this?

General Performance / Rb fuel pump compatibility
« on: January 16, 2015, 08:07:14 PM »
I have an RB20det, but i still have the RB25de fuel pump in the car.

Was just wondering if this is still ok? As the 25de and the 20det share so many parts already i figured it wouldn't be a problem but it sounds like the fuel pump is making a bit of a noise when it primes...

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