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Topics - Chang

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1
General Skyline Discussion / STOLEN: Nissan Skyline R34 (JGTC)
« on: September 18, 2011, 05:17:10 PM »
Hey all,

Haven't been on here in a while due to certain differences with people. Anyway.

Well, it finally happened to me. Please keep a look out for it and contact me on 021 134 1987 or call the police directly.

It was taken from St Lukes Westfield Shopping Centre (Auckland) at 3:00 pm 18th September. I was only in there for 5 minutes.

Although the car is probably on a boat somewhere, i'm just hoping it was for a joy ride

Yes I do have insurance, but the agreed price was low, and due to the nature of the vehicle has increased in value

Nissan Skyline R34
Rego: JGTC

Thanks all, it's been a sad day for me



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

2
Hey again,

Over the past couple of weeks, while surfing the net, I’ve seen numerous amounts of people asking about yellow headlights and how to restore them to factory fresh. I’ve even seen as far as people setting up group buys for $150+.

Now this really annoys me, as it’s a very simple process to do. Then you get people saying it’s really bad when they turn on their lights, so quickly come to the assumption it’s inside of the headlight. I guarantee 99% of the time it’s just on the outer surface.

This guide offers you guys a simple, cheap (talking about less than $10 here) yet equally effective solution. I’m talking no buffers, no special chemicals, no tricks.

Now, for those who don’t know, here’s a low down on why headlights turn yellow. It’s plastic! Simple. Like any plastic, as it ages the clarity disappears.

This really only happens on R33 and R34 Skyline’s due to the plastic housing headlight, unlike the R32 which is made of glass. Hence, this tut applies to all R33 and R34 Skylines.

Right:

Tools needed:
-Wet Sandpaper / Automotive sandpaper. You can pick this up at your local hardware store or auto paint supplier. You’ll need 1000, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit. Just one of each will be more than sufficient.
-Car wax. (Just any reputable brand should do, or any you have lying around your house)
-Masking tape
-2x Pieces of cloth, preferably something not rough.
-Strong buffing arm

Step 1: Sandpaper / Preparation

Start by ripping considerable pieces of same paper (of each grit) and let them soak in a bucket of water for a good 20 minutes.



Whilst the sandpaper is softening now’s a good time to mask of the car. Now this is a very important part as you want to mask off nay part you don’t wish to sand. You can never be too careful or use too much masking tape.

HINT: Instead of masking your bonnet, have it open all the time, that way you can save time and don’t F*ck it up.



Step 2: Initial sanding

Start with the highest grit 1000 and start sanding the headlight. You should sand the headlight for a good 3-4 minutes on each grit. Now do you see the yellow particles you’re sanding off, yep that’s a good sign not just an illusion.

NOTE: When sanding you should only be sanding in one direction, i.e. left – right or up – down. This prevent swirls and deeper scratches.

Also while sanding always keep the sandpaper constantly wet to prevent clogging.

When finished, give it a wipe with some tissues. It should look like this a very dull finish.



Now your probably thinking at this stage “What the F have I done, it’s ruined. I’m going to kill that Chang guy” No no, don’t worry it’s all part of the process. Just keep reading.

Step 3: More sanding

Now after using 1000 grit slowly progress down, 1200, 1500, 2000 till it looks like (After final 2000 grit)





Step 4: Polishing

Now I’m sure like me, majority of you don’t have any special chemicals or buffers. Too expensive, too difficult, too lazy, too can’t be f’d

Anyway, get your polish that you’ve got and polish it like you would a car. But really get into in. I mean rub it hard. Use a lot of elbow grease.



Till it looks like this



NOTE: You should be polishing in a circular motion, as opposed to the sanding technique.

Use the second cloth to wipe away the wax as per normal. You should be waxing until you can’t feel your hand or about to pass out.

3
Picture Post / ....................
« on: September 29, 2008, 06:43:02 PM »
Big thanks to the arsewipe that stole it.

4
General Skyline Discussion / Brand new R32 GTR
« on: July 23, 2008, 09:19:54 PM »
Hey fellas

I've been browsing through yahoo Japan, and came across this.

http://page5.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/e78654002

Basically a brand new R32 GTR with 1700km's on the clock.

There's alot of other well kept GTR's in Japan, just browse around.

R33 GTR with 10,000k's
http://page6.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/f55069441

R34 GTR with 8,000k's
http://page8.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/h55138175

If only I had the money, i'd have the whole lot :sigh:

5
Off-Topic / ....................
« on: March 28, 2008, 05:26:58 PM »
....................

6
Hey guys and girls.

Well just a brief overview of me. Well what can I say I LOVE Skylines. Iíve owned many Skylineís in my short time frame Iíve owned a license. Iíve fixed many Skylines for friends and myself over this time period as well.

So here are some tutorials I hope I can help you with. Iím passing down my FREE knowledge to all you guys. These tutorials can save you a lot of money and itís always fun to learn new things.

R32 Skyline
Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
http://skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56855

Removing RB20de / RB20det / with gearbox
http://skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56731

Front mount intercooler. All q's unanswered
http://skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53964

Installing oil catch can/tank for Skylines
http://skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56854

Tips on buying your next R32
http://skylinesdownunder.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56856

R33 / R34 Skyline
Yellow Fever (Restoring R33 and R34 model Headlights)
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Yellow-Fever-restoring-R-t249906.html

Anyway I hope Iíve made your conversion/mod that bit easier. More tutorials up soon.

Enjoy in the mean time

Chang :D

7
How To's | Tutorials | D.I.Y / Tips on buying your next R32
« on: March 13, 2008, 09:37:35 PM »
Buying a R32? Want to get the best one possible? Well hereís a learnerís guide to buying a R32 Skyline for your money

Exterior:

K, first off the exterior. The car is now almost 20 years old now and rust will be everywhere especially if itís a late import or has been on Japanese salt roads. So some things are to look out for are.

-Sills on both sides, this is where the rear ľ panel meets the sills. If the car has side skirts I would recommend removing them to have a thorough check.



-Underneath the wing mirrors. This is another area. After car washes or rain water sits there trapped and does not escape.

-This is an area thatís hard to check but again tends to rust. Itís the panel underneath your front windscreen wipers. Itís cover by the hard plastic. This is part of your cars drainage system and it always tends to rust there as water just sits there.



-The rear window, at the very bottom of your rear window.



-Some other tight and small places to look for are around the bonnet hinges and door hinges as these places come from factory NON-PAINTED so check for surface rust.

-Sills. Nissan sills are like glass. They bend and get distorted every time you jack up your car. So check for rust and any damage, as this will prevent you getting a WOF.

Also check panel gaps. Japanese imports may be imported damaged and the current seller may not tell you. Check for inconsistent paint fade i.e. if the bonnet, front guards and different colour to your roof and doors itís a sign it had a frontal accident some stage.

Thereís nothing worse than buying a twisted R32 chassis

Mechanical

Mechanically talking, most Nissans are as reliable as a Honda and go for a good solid 200,000 kmís +. But they do show signs of wear and tear.

Coils

One of the biggest problems with RB engines are the coils. They overheat and tend to crap out every 100,000 kís.

A hint to see if the car youíre buying has failed or about to fail coil packs is if the owner has removed the coil cover. Itís one of the biggest signs the coils are failing and he/she is just removing for a temporary fix for to allow the coils to run at a lower temperature.

Another one is listening to the engine. Donít listen before test drive only after, as coils only fail with heat. Listen for a slight kink in the smooth pitch of the car a bit like

BrummmmmmmmmmmĒdenĒmmmmmmmmĒdenĒmmmmmmmmĒdenĒ

Every time the ďdenĒ noise appears itís a sign of a misfire normally caused by coils.

Smoke / Engines / Turbos

If the car youíre planning on getting is turbo (GTS-t / GTS-4), make sure it doesnít blow any smoke. Especially grey, it means your turbo has blown a seal. If the car blows white smoke itís a blown head gasket. If itís blowing clear black smoke itís not something overly major to worry about as itís just running rich on the petrol. Easily tuned or fixed.

Also when on a test drive see if it boosts nicely, not

Brmmmmm (cough) mmm (splutter) mmmmmmBrmmm(change gear)mmmm (fart) mm

Also another issue with RB engines is engine rust. Due to the block being made of iron they can rust in the water galleries. Make sure the coolant (especially the overflow bottle located driverís side engine bay) isnít brown with a lot of rusty water in it. It shows the car hasnít been running anti-freeze coolant. This is a sign the car hasnít been taken car of and well maintained.

Drive train

Gearbox and clutch. Now with the all new ďDRIFTĒ trend going on. Itís likely your car has been ďdrifted owwĒ. Things to check for in your gearbox is the obviously CRUNCH when changing gears, itís a sign of needing new synchros. Also check your clutch isnít slipping. A clutch isnít too expensive to replace but itís more of a time and hassle thing. But itís always an excuse to the misses, to say you need a Heavy Duty one.

Diff wise, make sure your diff isnít clucking or whining too loud as this is early signs of a rebuild and worn teething.

Suspension

With 200,000+ kmís on the cars, like any other one the suspension will have taken a beating. But regular servicing should see it fine.

One thing to check is brakes. Itís funny how no one checks them nowadays when buying a car. Whilst on your test drive donít be afraid to slam on the brakes. If you foot goes to the floor itís a good sign you need new pads. Also check brake fluid. Check itís a nice fresh clean colour not gunky and dirty and thick oil.

Whilst on your test drive, if you hear a creaking or squeaking noise when you hit a bump or turn a corner this is a sign your upper control arms bushes need replacing. This is not good thing but is a cheap fix.

Shocks need to be replaced or freshened every 60,000kmís (supposedly) but no one ever does and fine most of the time. Just make sure the car is level on all 4 corners and not on a GANGSTA lean. Worn shocks are a No No. Also check if theyíre leaking.

If it has aftermarket adjustables, YES you do need a cert and YES they are uncomfortable. Youíll need back surgery by the time your 25 y/o.

Another tip is for the Hicas models. Check your Hicas light isnít always on as this may lead to bigger issue. It can be anything from a Faulty Hicas ECU to maybe the owner not running a Hicas boss kit for the aftermarket steering wheel.

Interior

Like any other 20 year car, the interior is a place where it will sure have taken a beating. Thereís not much to check for in the interior as most R32ís will all be the same. Classic examples are the bubble in the dash due to the heat.

Also the notorious broken air vents. They always break. One tip if you are trying to find one, donít bother with second hand. They are brittle and will break again. Go straight to Nissan. $80-$150?? New Depending on what vent so exactly the same price of second hand one.

Check for any unusual brown stains Hehehehe

Electrics

Now Nissans may be great cars but when it comes down to finer details such as electrical itís really a let down. Itís normally not a huge problem or issue thatíll affect the car just frustrating.

A common problem with most R32ís is windows not opening (especially 4 door sedans). This can be due to the master control panel or a faulty window motor. Itís a cheap easy fix as Trademe and wreckers sell them for piss.

Another problem is the cluster readings. Let me list them in order. Rev counter bouncing up and down for no reason. Oil pressure reads low, or NIL in my old car. How to check if these are just faulty electrics I donít know. Best way is to give it to a Sparky or get aftermarket gauges.

Well that really does cover most of the bad points of a R32. Trust me on these tips. Iíve bought 4x R32ís now and each have the same problems. Just make sure you have a thorough check of the car before you buy it.

Go for a long test drive not a pussy drive round the block. As a lot of cars show the problems after itís warmed up and hot. A good 20-30 minutes should be fine. Just pay back the seller in petrol costs and I donít think heíll complain too much, (Alt. buy him a Big Mac with fries, itíll keep his mouth shut for the mean time).

I hope you enjoy your new ride.

8
Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox

This is a complete guide on how to remove an RB20de engine out of an r32 Skyline without removing your gearbon. But this basically goes for the same with Cefiroís, Laurelís and RB20det.

Before I start just a word of caution, SAFETY FIRST please make your car is on level grounds, jack stands are secure and HANDBRAKE on at all appropriate times. I want to help you guys not kill you.

Oh and pictures stop towards the end Sorry

Tools needed:

Wrench tool kit, with nuts sizes being mainly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Various wrenches and wrench clamps
Flat and Phillips screw drivers
Engine crane
Car ramp or car jack with stands
Power bar = a normal wrench with a pole at the end of it :D If you know anything about physics T=FD which in simple mans terms means although the same force is applied to undo the bolt, a longer distance (stick) means you have more torque to undo the bolt.

Anyway enough science crap, lets get started

Step 1: Removing battery

First disconnect the battery, remove battery and set a side. (If you failed at this step, STOP!!! Put down everything and do not proceed. You are mildly retarded with cars and should not be allowed near one). Achieving this step however, proceed.

Step 2: Fluid drain

Drain all fluids. Engine, radiator

Engine oil removal: 1x bolt at the bottom of the sump. If you have a sump guard remove it now as your going to remove it anyway.



Radiator coolant removal: At the bottom right of radiator (passenger side) there is one drain plug, unscrew and let drain.

Step 3: Removing the bonnet

(Youíll need 2 people to help remove it) 4x 12mm bolts, 2 on each side at the hinges.

Step 4: Removing radiator

K, by now all your radiator coolant should be empty. You can now start to remove it. Undo the top brackets that secure the radiator to the car. Now undo your radiator hoses that go to your engine, one at top and one on bottom.

I found out that your fan shroud blocks you removing the radiator, so remove it. Itís secured with 4x Phillip screw one at each corner. Now it should be separate from the radiator, pull your radiator out now, then your shroud.

Then if you wish, remove your engine fan, 4x 10mm bolts in the centre of it.



Step 5: Removing the guard (optional)

(Passenger guard) It may seem like a hassle and you donít have to do this but it makes life a lot easier when you remove the loom (Trust me, it is). Itís just approx 10x 10mm bolts to remove.

Step 6: Unplugging loom

Go inside the car and at the passenger side foot well, there is a plastic cover remove it and there lies the heart of the engine ďthe ECUĒ. Thereís 3x 10mm bolts securing it to the car. Thereís also 1x 10mm centre nut to remove the ECU from the harness. Remove ECU and set aside. Surrounding the ECU are various plugs and clips. Remove all surround plugs and clips that go along with the harness.



If you have removed your guard you can see the loom above your left wheel. You can start to pull it now through the firewall. While pulling if you canít pull it through, donít yank on it anymore, go back in the cabin of car to see if there are blockages to the loom and undo any necessary plugs.

Now gently feed loom through firewall and bobís ya uncle.



K removing loom in engine bay. Thereís one plug on your AFM remove that also there are 2 plugs that go into your air con pump remove that also. Thereís also one that goes onto your wiper motor, and one oxygen sensor located on your dump pipe. The final plug is where your first loom meets your main fuse box loom, you have to unplug that one too.

Now go to the fuse box section of your engine bay. Remove the negative terminal, which should be secured to the chassis then into your engine block (right behind the alternator). Also remove started motor wiring, alternator wiring and a few other nitty gritty plugs

You should now look like this



Step 7: Removing exhaust / intercooler piping / piping

K, now your next step is to separate the engine from the exhaust. There are 3x (12 or 14mm) bolts at the dump pipe that connects to your front pipe. You have to get under the car to undo these bolts.



For RB20de: Start by removing intake pipe, thereís 2x 12mm bolts that secure your intake to a bracket, remove them and the various other hose clamps and done, yank that mother off.

For RB20det: Remove your intercooler pipes, from the turbo elbow to the throttle body. And also remove your j pipe. The j pipe has 2x 10mm bolts secured to a bracket, also remove various hose clamps.

NOTE: It is important that you seal up any intercooler holes or any other holes that screws or bolts can fall into, donít find that out the hard way.

Step 8: Removing air con / Power steering pumps

K now in the right side of the engine bay (passenger side) near the front of the engine you can see the power steering pump and air con pump which need to be removed. You can either

A) Remove all power steering lines from the reservoir to the pump and do the same thing with the air con line. But if you do, do this step youíll need to drain all your power steering fluid out first.

(OR)

B) Remove the power steering pump and air con pump together by unbolting 6x 12mm bolts from the engine. I prefer this option as itís clean and simple and that way you donít need to remove the power steering fluid, and get oils stains all over the driveway.

Step 9: Separating the gearbox from engine.

K before you start on the gearbox, remove the starter motor. Itís located behind the oil filter and looks like a big cylinder if you donít know what it looks like. To remove simply undo 2x 14mm bolts and various plug. These bolts are a bit tricky to get to but an extension wrench with solve it. One bolt is at the top and the other one you have to crawl underneath the car to remove. After removal put aside in a safe place.

Now this step is the step I find the trickiest. Thereís about (6 or 8 bolts) all (12 or 14mm canít remember) that are bolted to your engine on the gearbox (or known as the bellhousing). Now the bottom ones are very easy but itís the top 2 ones that will get you everytime. Everyone has different techniques on removing them.

Best way in my opinion is to, First use a car jack and jack up the engine pulley (use a piece of soft wood or something to prevent damage). This allows you the engine to pivot on the engine mounts and just give you that extra bit more space and allow you to see the bolts. Then get one long extension wrench OR bolt one wrench extension after the other to make a very long wrench extension to reach the bolts.

Now with all the bolts off you can separate the gearbox. I like to give it a tap around the edges with my trusty friend ďThe HammerĒ. With a bit of twisting and rotating you should now see it separating.

Sounds tricky I know and it is, it never gets easier.

Step 10: Engine mounts bolts

You can tackle this step 2 ways wither way is fine up to you.

1st Way: Now there are 2x 14mm bolts one on each side of the engine that secure the engine onto the engine mounts. These bolts are quite tricky to get into as thereís a lot of pipes etc blocking your wrench to get into the bolt. But if you followed my previous steps you should be fine.

2nd Way: You can go underneath the engine mounts and remove 1x 14mm bolt on each side. This step is alot easier as by removing these bolts, the mounts come out with the engine at the same time.

But the choice is in your hands.

Step 11: Removing engine

Now the fun part pfft. Start cranking the engine crane and slowly lift the engine. Once you get some slack in the chains remove one of your engine mounts (either side it doesnít matter) 4x 12mm bolts.

Now since you havenít removed your gearbox but separated it, while lifting it out wriggle it to separate it, donít hoist the engine and gearbox out when the gearbox is still attached to engine. Damage is no good. It hurts your wallet.

If your car lifts along with the engine make sure you check for any bolts you havenít undone. If it successful lifting out start tilting the front of the engine more upwards. Thereís no real way of doing this just more trail and error. Now once the engine is lifted clear enough for the engine to remove, you can either

A) Release the handbrake and roll the car backwards

(OR)

B) Pull the crane + engine away from the car, up to you really.

Now you should have your engine out of the car itís quite simple really, putting it back in is just the reverse process of this

If youíre doing an RB20de to DET conversion just make sure you change the fuel pump & ECU to/from a turbo one, or upgrade to aftermarket. Also your front pipe is different on a N/A to a turbo one so will also need to be changed.

Anyway Iíve said 1667 words now, my fingers are bleeding and Iím sure youíre tired of reading. ENJOY your engine conversion. I know I didnít :)

9
Installing a Oil catch can also known as oil catch tank

This is a full guide on how to install an oil catch can for RB20de and det engines. But this will apply to most RB engines and engines in general.

This mod is one of the easiest things you can do. Normal charge rate approx $60+ for an install.

Before I get started Iíll get all the misconceptions and myths out of the way.

Now a catch can in NO-WAY will give you any performance gains from a HP (horsepower) or KW (kilowatt) perspective.

For all you non-mechanically experienced people, in simple terms the purpose of an oil catch can is to hold or ďcatchĒ excess oil blow out of the rockers.

It is NOT an absolute necessity to have. If you run a stock motor with stock turboís etc it has been proven by some that the oily goodness that comes out can prolong the life of your turbo.

This mod is really only if you run after market turboís and/or new intake pipe to your turbo.

Tips & Hints:

1) Try and find some RB20de rocker covers or just the nipple ďyes I said nippleĒ

The reason is that itís a lot neater and tidier, arrghhh screw it pictures paint 1000 words.



2) You must have a catch can that is vented. You can NOT run one non vented as it will, well, Iíll let you find out yourself but think $$$$$$$ sore on your wallet.

K starting time.

Tools needed:

-Drill
-Flat/Philips screw drivers
-Wrench kit
-Blade or anything to cut through old hoses.
-Oil catch can kit (if parts missing though luck dumbass, you got screwed over)
-Air tight tape OR various size bolts to blocks holes

Step 1: Removing old junk

First off remove your old piping (highlighted red), now you can remove the clips and slowly take your time and slide them out. But if your like me and have no sense of patience or have a bad temper, get your razor blade and slice through them and take them all off.

For RB20det: There are only 2 pipes you need to remove. First one being the one thatís located on the left (driverís side) that goes from the nipple to the manifold. Second one is near your j-pipe and goes into your intake manifold remove that also.

You donít need to remove the U shaped one as oil mist will piss out of there if you remove it.

For RB20de: There are only 2 pipes you need to remove. First one being the one thatís located on the left (driverís side) that goes from the nipple to the manifold. Second one goes into your intake pipe; you need to remove this also.

Note: Wear gloves when you approach this step. May sound stupid but not when your finger is hanging on by a piece of skin.



Step 2 Blocking the holes

For RB20det: First block off the one thatís on your plenum. You can use tape or jam a bolt in there your choice. I like to do both.

Second hole you need to block is the one that goes into your intake pipe. This is the important one you need to block as your car will stall if there are any air leaks.



Step 2: (For RB20de only)

The two nipples are facing no where and are not in the right direction. You need to swivel them round to your desired angle. You can do this by either using your martial art fingers , failing that use my trusty friend ďHammerĒ and gently tap it into place.



Step 3: Finding a place to mount your can

Now this step is really up to you. Find your desired location you canít your oil catch can. Preferably not near your strut towers as you will need to drill holes to mount your brackets, this will lead to a FAIL WOF.

Best place is normally your radiator support panel on the passenger side engine bay as itís got the most free space. If you have the brackets you can now drill some holes and dummy mount your catch can.

Once happy with it use the various bolts given to you in your kit set and secure it. Make sure it doesnít jiggle like a fat women and youíre SWEET.



Step 4: Connecting the hoses.

This is simple. Connect your hose from one end of the nipple to one end of your catch can. And so forth with the second one. Now use mini hose clamps to secure any possible air leaks and you are done.

You can also cable tie the hoses together to keep it a bit tidier and not have two hoses flapping wildly around.

Step 5: Final check and completion

Start her up and give everything a through check.

Issues and problems:

My car now stalls after the installation: If your car is stalling now, check again at all possible areas that may leak air.

If this is not your problem, this may be. Now because you are venting your breathers into the atmosphere, this causes a vacuum change and result in your idle to dropping. You can simply fix this problem by raising the idle.

10
How To's | Tutorials | D.I.Y / Removing RB20de / RB20det / with gearbox
« on: February 12, 2008, 02:08:32 PM »
Removing RB20de / RB20det / with gearbox

This is a complete guide on how to remove an RB20de engine out of an r32 Skyline. But this basically goes for the same with Cefiroís, Laurelís and RB20det.

Before I start just a word of caution, SAFETY FIRST please make your car is on level grounds, jack stands are secure and HANDBRAKE on at all appropriate times. I want to help you guys not kill you.

Oh and pictures stop towards the end Sorry

Tools needed:

Wrench tool kit, with nuts sizes being mainly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Various wrenches and wrench clamps
Flat and Phillips screw drivers
Engine crane
Car ramp or car jack with stands
Power bar = a normal wrench with a pole at the end of it :D If you know anything about physics T=FD which in simple mans terms means although the same force is applied to undo the bolt, a longer distance (stick) means you have more torque to undo the bolt.

Anyway enough science crap, lets get started

Step 1: Removing battery

First disconnect the battery, remove battery and set a side. (If you failed at this step, STOP!!! Put down everything and do not proceed. You are mildly retarded with cars and should not be allowed near one). Achieving this step however, proceed.

Step 2: Fluid drain

Drain all fluids. Engine, radiator, gearbox.

Engine oil removal: 1x bolt at the bottom of the sump. If you have a sump guard remove it now as your going to remove it anyway.



Radiator coolant removal: At the bottom right of radiator (passenger side) there is one drain plug, unscrew and let drain.

Gearbox oil removal (manual): One bolt direct at the bottom directly in the centre. Undo and drain. NOTE: Undo the filler plug FIRST before the drain plug. If you decide not to go through with conversion and drained all the oil out and then realise the filler plug is stuck, your F U C K Ďed

Gearbox oil removal (auto): Now for auto trans you can drain the fluid as there's no drain plug like a manual. So this step is irrelevant for you auto dudes and dudesses. But just a note after you take in out leave it horizontal as oil pisses everywhere out of the 50000000 holes when you tip it on an angle.



Step 3: Removing the bonnet

(Youíll need 2 people to help remove it) 4x 12mm bolts, 2 on each side at the hinges.

Step 4: Removing radiator

K, by now all your radiator coolant should be empty. You can now start to remove it. Undo the top brackets that secure the radiator to the car. Now undo your radiator hoses that go to your engine, one at top and one on bottom.

I found out that your fan shroud blocks you removing the radiator, so remove it. Itís secured with 4x Phillip screw one at each corner. Now it should be separate from the radiator, pull your radiator out now, then your shroud.

Then if you wish, remove your engine fan, 4x 10mm bolts in the centre of it.



Step 5: Removing the guard (optional)

(Passenger guard) It may seem like a hassle and you donít have to do this but it makes life a lot easier when you remove the loom (Trust me, it is). Itís just approx 10x 10mm bolts to remove.

Step 6: Unplugging loom

Go inside the car and at the passenger side foot well, there is a plastic cover remove it and there lies the heart of the engine ďthe ECUĒ. Thereís 3x 10mm bolts securing it to the car. Thereís also 1x 10mm centre nut to remove the ECU from the harness. Remove ECU and set aside. Surrounding the ECU are various plugs and clips. Remove all surround plugs and clips that go along with the harness.



If you have removed your guard you can see the loom above your left wheel. You can start to pull it now through the firewall. While pulling if you canít pull it through, donít yank on it anymore, go back in the cabin of car to see if there are blockages to the loom and undo any necessary plugs.

Now gently feed loom through firewall and bobís ya uncle.



K removing loom in engine bay. Thereís one plug on your AFM remove that also there are 2 plugs that go into your air con pump remove that also. Thereís also one that goes onto your wiper motor, and one oxygen sensor located on your dump pipe. The final plug is where your first loom meets your main fuse box loom, you have to unplug that one too.

Now go to the fuse box section of your engine bay. Remove the negative terminal, which should be secured to the chassis then into your engine block (right behind the alternator). Also remove started motor wiring, alternator wiring and a few other nitty gritty plugs

You should now look like this



Step 7: Interior removal

Now start all your interior plastic surrounds.

(manual)

There are 4x 10mm bolts that secure your rubber shifter boot to the chassis, remove that and your done

(auto)

First remove all your (overdrive and snow/hold) plugs. There are 4x 10mm bolts that secure your auto shifter to the chassis remove these. After you remove them you well notice there is a shifter cable attached to the bottom of your shifter. To remove cable there is a bolt at the end, remove this bolt, and the cable should now be able to pull it out along with the auto shifter

Step 8: Removing exhaust / intercooler piping / piping

K, now your next step is to separate the engine from the exhaust. There are 3x (12 or 14mm) bolts at the dump pipe that connects to your front pipe. You have to get under the car to undo these bolts.



For RB20de: Start by removing intake pipe, thereís 2x 12mm bolts that secure your intake to a bracket, remove them and the various other hose clamps and done, yank that mother off.

For RB20det: Remove your intercooler pipes, from the turbo elbow to the throttle body. And also remove your j pipe. The j pipe has 2x 10mm bolts secured to a bracket, also remove various hose clamps.

NOTE: It is important that you seal up any intercooler holes or any other holes that screws or bolts can fall into, donít find that out the hard way.

Step 9: Removing air con / Power steering pumps

K now in the right side of the engine bay (passenger side) near the front of the engine you can see the power steering pump and air con pump which need to be removed. You can either

A) Remove all power steering lines from the reservoir to the pump and do the same thing with the air con line. But if you do, do this step youíll need to drain all your power steering fluid out first.

(OR)

B) Remove the power steering pump and air con pump together by unbolting 6x 12mm bolts from the engine. I prefer this option as itís clean and simple and that way you donít need to remove the power steering fluid, and get oils stains all over the driveway.

Step 10: Engine mounts bolts

You can tackle this step 2 ways wither way is fine up to you.

1st Way: Now there are 2x 14mm bolts one on each side of the engine that secure the engine onto the engine mounts. These bolts are quite tricky to get into as thereís a lot of pipes etc blocking your wrench to get into the bolt. But if you followed my previous steps you should be fine.

2nd Way: You can go underneath the engine mounts and remove 1x 14mm bolt on each side. This step is alot easier as by removing these bolts, the mounts come out with the engine at the same time.

But the choice is in your hands.

Step 11: Removing driveshaft/ Gearbox mount

Note: Donít lie beneath the driveshaft when removing, as itís heavy and does intend to hurt. Anyway to remove, 4x bolts located at your diff (if this is the first time the bolts will be tight so some WD40 or CRC wouldnít hurt), and 2x bolts (1x 17mm / 1x 12mm) located at the driveshaft hoop, after it falls down pull to the direction of the diff and it should slide out.

Note: The end of your gearbox may leak oil out now, put a bucket under there dumbass.



Step 12: Removing gearbox cross-member

Both (manual and auto). There is 4x bolts that secure your gearbox to the car, remove these. Place a jack or ghetto bricks as once you undo these; as the gearbox does sag after you remove these bolts

Step 13: Remove miscellaneous gearbox items

Manual: Remove your speedo cable by using a spanner and turning anti-clockwise, also remove reverse sensor plug and clutch line that goes into your gearbox. Also itíll be a lot easier if you remove your shifter, 6x bolts in total (5x 12mm, 1x 14mm)

Auto: Remove your speedo cable by using a spanner and turning anti-clockwise. Remove the various plugs and loom thatís attached to the car, and some other crap which Iíve forgotten.

Step 14: Tying chains/ropes to engine

Now this step is really up to you on how you prefer to secure your ropes and engine to the crane, I personally go for the intake manifold and exhaust manifold as once you tie it around these thereís no chance of slipping off.

Step 15: Removing engine

Now the fun part pfft. Start cranking the engine crane and slowly lift the engine. Once you get some slack in the chains remove one of your engine mounts (either side it doesnít matter) 4x 12mm bolts.

If your car lifts along with the engine make sure you check for any bolts you havenít undone. If it successful lifting out start tilting the front of the engine more upwards. Thereís no real way of doing this just more trail and error. Now once the engine is lifted clear enough for the engine to remove, you can either

A) Release the handbrake and roll the car backwards

(OR)

B) Pull the crane + engine away from the car, up to you really.

Now you should have your engine out of the car itís quite simple really, putting it back in is just the reverse process of this

If youíre doing an RB20de to DET conversion just make sure you change the fuel pump & ECU to/from a turbo one, or upgrade to aftermarket. Also your front pipe is different on a N/A to a turbo one so will also need to be changed.

Anyway Iíve said 1772 words now, my fingers are bleeding and Iím sure youíre tired of reading. ENJOY your engine :)

11
Picture Post / Your history with the Nissan Skyline
« on: January 23, 2008, 09:01:36 AM »
Hey Peeps,

Here's a chance where you can post a picture of your car, more specifically your history with the Nissan Skyline. I’m sure some of us may have owned more than one Skyline at one point or another. Me for one, well i'll let the pictures do the talking, as you can see i'm Skyline MADDDDD.

2005: Bought my first car at 15. Nissan GTS-t. Bought it dead stock and did every single modification to it.


2007: R33 GTS25, absolutely stock standard. I'm starting to get old now. Turbos are gay and blow off valves are gayer :P




2007: Project R32, it really only went downhill this project. Planned to put the RB26de in it. Oh well next time


2007: (December) R32 GTE. Painted it from silver to black and thought it would be a great daily. Sold it shortly as I really just hated it after 2 weeks.


2008: Project R32 (Take 2). Found a very cheap Manual coupe, snapped it up quickly. But later came at a price. Found out chassis is bent, bloody rotten luck. Oh well there's always "take 3"


2008 (May) R34 Decided to grow up and get a more sensible car.


2008-2009 Planned "Project R32" (Take 3) hopefully this one turns out better. But really trying to hunt an older Skyline to restore rather than mod.

:)

12
Off-Topic / ....................
« on: January 09, 2008, 07:04:17 PM »
....................

13
Picture Post / ......................
« on: August 24, 2007, 06:59:03 PM »
......................

14
General Skyline Discussion / ....................
« on: August 10, 2007, 08:17:32 PM »
....................

15
Hey guys

As some of you guys know i'm selling my car. Ok so heres the story

Theres a guy, lets say "mike" from the US. Mike saw my car for sale and he's really keen. He sent me an email. At first i thought junk mail. But this guy seems to be fairly genuine as he has made contact with me to talk details

Well long story short. The sale is in the serious part of sale. Mike said he's willing to send me a US $8500 cheque. And mike is willing to wait for the cheque to clear before the car goes into container.

The US $8500 he sends me, includes me having to pay the money to send it. Now im not too keen to have the hassle of sending the car, but then mike said he know of a shipping company and all i have to do is drive the car on the truck and it's a done deal.

Now this just does sound to good to be true. A US $8500 is equivilant to approx $12k NZ. I currently dont know how much shipping cost but i have just sent an email to him.

Now do you guys think this is a too good to be true story, Or is it just another fraud scam the "Americans" come up with.

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