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Topics - Phlex

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Forced Induction / R32 RB25DE+T - Advice?
« on: March 01, 2013, 09:50:23 PM »
Hey guys ive recently whacked a turbo on my RB25DE. I have gotten it running but am reluctant to fang it until ive sorted out all the niggly bits.

Current setup is:

RB20DET Turbo (internally gated)
7Psi actuator from 25det (appears to spike at 10psi sometimes)
Braided water and oil lines (running 1.4mm restrictor in oil line)
3" Stainless downpipe with seperate wastegate pipe that connects back in further down
FMIC with 2.5" alloy piping throughout
Walbro internal fuel pump
Blanked off BOV
Pod filter
Stock exhaust with decat pipe for now. Will be upgrading

On the standard RB25DE ECU it runs, but isnt flash but I am using a mates RB20DE+T Ecu, it boosts out fine in first and second but appears to be missing in third from 3k onwards, do I need to run a fuel pressure regulator or GTR injectors? Planning on getting a chipped ecu thats more suitable or getting nistune, looking into an RB25DET turbo also.

Any other advice would be appreciated

Just put a set of GTST (or poss z32) alloy brake calipers on my car and we have had massive issues getting it to bleed, I have narrowed it down to the R/F caliper leaking from where the two halves of the caliper bolt together. On the inside there are two small o ring type seals, does anyone know the part number or where to get these? The rest of the caliper has been re-kitted but these weren't done at the time.

General Performance / Manual conversion Issues
« on: May 19, 2011, 10:23:29 PM »
Hey Guys,

This is about my fifth manual conversion on a RWD nissan and the first time I have had issues.

1: Yesterday the car started (inhibitor has been bridged). Today it doesn't. I get a click from a relay in the interior fuse box but nothing else. I hadn't done anything different except I left the battery connected overnight when I haven't since I began the conversion.

2: Key is stuck in ignition, I cant push the release button. I have been told this is something to do with the plugs that were connected to the auto shifter. Can somebody please clarify?

I helped do the exact same conversion a few weeks back and that car has had no problems at all.

Thanks in advance,


I have recently gotten another R32 skyline, I am building it in to a cruisy daily.

I am donating the manual trans, adjustable suspension and low offset wheels from my other skyline to it.

I have 17x9s with a +17 offset on the rear running a 225/45/17. When I roll the lip of my rear guards up, there is about 8mm between my tire and my guard. (prev skyline was certed for 300mm +/-5% and it had been dropped to 285mm when measured and I will be dropping it another 10mm to get it certed this time as I had too much guard space in the front)

If I retain HICAS, what are the chances of my wheels hitting the guards?

Also what are the benefits of keeping HICAS? It appears to be a good working system, and I know that they can be problematic in the future.

General Performance / Clutch noise
« on: August 17, 2010, 08:35:26 PM »
Okay somebody must have come across this before. I just did the clutch in my GTS25. While I was at it, I threw in a new master cyl (identical to the one that was in it) It drives mint now with the exception of sometimes when I put the clutch right in I can hear a slight but noticable wirr like its rubbing against something. I can feel this through the gearknob too. I had originally had the adjustment wound right out so it bit half way down the pedal but have also tried adjusting it half way in so it bites just up from the bottom of the pedal (this makes it have a real soft pedal which is poo!)

Orig clutch was an RPM63N and replaced with the Exedy Equiv but re-used the RPM pressure plate.

Has anyone come across this before? Getting stressed at it coz I dont want to damage it by driving!

General Performance / R32 Diff Questions
« on: July 25, 2010, 09:22:24 PM »
Okay, my car is a factory GXi. I have converted it to an RB25DE and RB20DET G/box + flywheel + clutch and it is running the stock driveshaft.

Rear tire size is 215/45/17 (which I assume is the correct size for the car)

When I did the conversion there was a random gear-like box sitting in line of the speedo sensor in the gearbox, I discarded this when putting the RB20DET box in.

Originally it had a R180 3.9-1 open diff. This has been locked.
Now it has a R200 4.3-1 Viscous LSD.

When im running the 3.9, the speedo reads correctly, that diff is only usually in when I head up to slipway.

When I run my 4.3 which is most of the time, the speedo reads 60 @50 and 120 @100.

What diff SHOULD my setup be running?

Reason i'm asking is I am considering buying a 2 way and want to get one that will do the lot. I want to be able to have good speed on the street and track but enough torque on the drift track. I have been told that the 3.9 isnt the best diff for the track but it seems to do alright.

Introductions / New Member Welcomes / Phlex
« on: July 15, 2010, 09:50:31 PM »
Hey everybody!

Names Nate, drive a 1993 R32 Sedan.

Car started life as a GXI factory Manual (Ex jap driver training car) but after driving it for a few days and overheating it 6 times, I decided to convert it to RB20DE manual. Got it all going and got a full panel and paint and within 2 months had blown the RB20DE up due to its lack of wanting to drift at slipway.

The RB20DE was replaced with a low K RB25DE from a GTS25 Auto and has made a huge improvement with drivability and skidability when required.

Aside from the engine conversion and fresh coat of paint, car is almost standard aside from a full exhaust, some ISC Coil Overs and a set of low offset 17x8 / 17x9 alloys.

I have also owned an S13 180SX (track only), an A31 Cefiro, a C33 Laurel Diesel, 92 Vtec Prelude, 83 City Turbo, U12 Bluebird SSS and about 15 others :)

I work as a sales rep for Extreme Automotive (19 Railway Ave, Lower Hutt and 42 Adelaide Road, Newtown, Wellington).

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