Congrats to our New President Anguss!!
Remember to like us on Facebook!! -

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - blantant68

Pages: [1]
Hi, I need a factory ECU to program a spare key (I'm running a Link), does anyone have one for sale or one they would be happy to lend?

General Performance / Skyline R34 GTR: Kakimoto + Link G4 Project
« on: October 11, 2015, 08:08:26 AM »
After devoting some time to getting used to the explosive HKS T04Z, the 450awkw it helped produce, and the screamer pipe it vents through, I decided it was time to change one arguably crucial thing, and add a few extras on the side. Despite having a relatively stock exterior, the ‘99 GTR in midnight purple II has a huge presence visually, thanks to the fire-breathing front end to the Work Emotion Kiwami wheels and the tall factory adjustable rear wing. I felt the visual presence needed to be matched by the GTRs soundtrack. The HKS Silent HiPower, while conveniently quiet while cruising and still allowing more power than a GT3 car, didn’t quite match up to this need.

After deliberation a Kakimoto GT1.0Z racing system was ordered from RHDJapan. The GT1 is the most free-flowing system in the Kakimoto catalogue and is made out of superhard steel which allows it to be slimmer and lighter than most systems, and produce some amazing noise. The piping is 3.5” all the way through, unlike some systems which neck down to 3” before the cat/decat section.
The system was damaged upon arrival from Japan, however thanks to some quick repair work from STM the system was ready to go on, coupled with some new plugs to make the most of any gains. The car with its newly installed system was dropped on the dyno to check AFRs and make any necessary adjustments to the Apexi PowerFC. The first reading that appeared on STM’s dyno screen showed 420kw at 20psi, 30kw less than the highest made previously….except this was on low boost – 6psi lower than the high setting. The significant extra flow had forced an extra 2psi from the 18psi target pressure, and provided 45 bonus KWs. High boost was then attempted, but resulted in the extra flow leaning out the mixture and making any further pulls unsafe.
At this point a decision had to be made between almost completely retuning the PowerFC, or moving straight to a Link G4, a switch which was in the pipeline anyway. Less than 2 weeks later the GTR was back at STM for the ECU install, the setup of a few of its associated features, and some ID1000 injectors to allow Chris to lock in a more accurate tune. The computer was wired in, the auxiliary boost controller removed to make way for the Link onboard control, and the riskier 2xZ32 AFMs deleted in favour of a MAP sensor. A beautiful custom intake entry system with twin K&N filters was crafted to further improve flow and provide further bling to the engine bay.
The Link comes with more features than the Atlantis space shuttle, and I wasn’t going to look past the opportunity to make the most of these. Having been convinced partly by Andre’s blog article “Never Blow Another Engine. Ever!” I opted for recently popularised ‘knock block’ lean cut protection, and ‘spun-bearing block’ oil pressure cut protection. The lean protection would cut ignition if a wideband sensor installed in the exhaust detected lean running, and oil pressure protection would initiate a cut upon any oil surge caused by heavy Geforces dropping the oil pressure below 40psi.
It was now time for Chris to tune the Link, giving the Tomei RB28 a brand new personality which yielded 467awkw on high boost and added an extra layer of safety on top of the previous tune. High boost was set at 28 pounds, and low at 20. He didn’t stop there, setting up launch control in readiness for its eventual dragstrip debut.
Compared with the previous setup, the GTR is now more responsive, from pulling out slowly in traffic to coming on boost almost 500rpm sooner. It sounds great, with the sound of the 260deg cams unleashed and being easily mistaken for a much more aggressive grind. Backfires come when you want them, and it’s nice being able to log what’s going on during highway and mountain runs.

SDU Central / Halloween Cruise to Martinborough 31 October
« on: October 10, 2015, 05:23:05 PM »
SDU October Meet:

1st meeting point - BP Melling Lower Hutt. Kickoff is 11am in order to get minimal traffic both ways and possibly get to Martinborough for a quick early lunch. We'll be leaving BP shortly after 11.

**we may add meeting points along the way if it's more convenient for anyone that lives between the start/finish

Midpoint - Martinborough Kitchener's Cafe (potential stop for quick brunch). Drive from BP Melling to Martinborough is about 1hr so should be there around 12.15. There's usually plenty of safe parking. Hopefully Jeff will have a few casks of wine waiting for us :D

Make sure to let others know. People are welcome to join for part of the cruise if desired. Other makes of car permitted but to stay at rear of the chain and be to the side during photoshoots. Bring a GoPro if you have one.

Should be a fun drive whether the day is slidy or shiny. Any proposed changes to this event let me know :)

Audio, Security and Electrical / R34 GTR windows stopped working
« on: November 22, 2014, 06:01:56 PM »
Hi guys, all of a sudden my windows stopped working, no sound from the motors, and the 'lock doors' button next to the window buttons doesn't work either. I've checked all interior and engine bay fuses and all looked fine. What could be the problem?

General Performance / GTR refusing to go on boost
« on: October 20, 2014, 09:18:38 PM »
Hey guys, I've got a question about my GTR running a T04z and power fc, it might be nothing, but it's happened on 2 occasions. The first time was about 3 weeks ago I'd just been driving around town and the car was warmed up, then I went on the motorway, went to go on boost, but it refused, and instead felt like it was fuel cutting. It didn't really feel like a miss, more like a straight cut in power. I then noticed that the fuel light was on and put it down to the fuel being at the back of the tank and unable to be pumped through sufficiently as the problem went away when I refueled.

The 2nd time was yesterday, I'd just been through the caltex car wash and the car was warm, drove through town for a bit then went on the motorway, tried to go on boost but the same thing happened. Tried again twice and same thing. I may have been through the caltex wash the first time as well but I can't remember for certain. Plenty of fuel in the tank this time though. I then drove normally for a couple of minutes and tried again and it pulled normally the next couple of times before I called it a night.

It could just be that the car wasn't hot enough or didn't like going on boost suddenly, or maybe wet or bad AFM or clogged muffler? It'll probably be fine next time I drive it as it has been most of the time, I just don't want to risk losing the engine if it's a failing fuel pump or something. So I thought I'd ask just in case it rings any alarm bells? Thanks in advance

Maintenance & Car Care / Spark plug torque
« on: September 04, 2013, 01:59:08 PM »
Does it make any difference how tight you do up spark plugs? the manual says 20-29 nm - quite a big range..... thought it may be contributing to my misfiring. am about to change the coils also.

Off-Topic / My insurance survey
« on: July 19, 2013, 04:40:49 PM »
Now that I'm turning 21 I decided to try and get cheaper insurance. Am currently paying 1460 per year with 1400 excess with club auto. My car is a R33 GTST with pod, full exhaust, 17"s, dynatron alarm and immobiliser. Sum insured is 12000. I only consider full cover.

State - 804 premium, 750 excess
BNZ - 734 premium, 750 excess
AA - wouldn't insure me, have to be 25
Westpac - wouldn't insure, as have to be a banking/contents insurance customer
NAC - 1200,1200
Club auto- negotiated excess down a bit, but premium remained at 1460
ASB - 1300, 750
AMI - 1300, 1100

Ended up going with Medical Assurance society as I am eligible through work, 820 premium, with 100 (that's right) excess.

These quotes were obviously because I only have 3 mods, otherwise some insurers may not have considered my car. I also argued that the mods don't significantly increase power or change handling.

Other arguments I made to get cheap quotes:
- No demerits
- Safe neighbourhood
- Garage, with alarm
- GPS tracker
- Car use (rarely driven etc)
- Steering lock
- Responsible use blah blah
- Only race at manfield, not on streets

I hope someone finds this useful :idea:

Maintenance & Car Care / O2 Sensor R33 GTST
« on: July 13, 2012, 11:54:00 AM »
Hi guys,

I've been experiencing bad economy and the oxygen sensor is one of the things on my list. Which is the best to get? NTK/OEM/bosch etc? And wheres the best place to buy one from? Also where can I find the 22mm removal tool?

Cheers for any help

Maintenance & Car Care / under 25 insurance
« on: August 16, 2011, 05:49:19 PM »
Hey, does anyone know the best way to get insurance for a 19yo, for a gtst in NZ? Cheers

Pages: [1]