Congrats to our New President Anguss!!
Remember to like us on Facebook!! -

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Topics - ExtremeBean

Pages: [1] 2
General Skyline Discussion / How much is my R32 worth? Any interest?
« on: June 09, 2015, 11:49:37 PM »
Looking at selling my R32 as i need money and a cheaper daily :(

Would like to know what it's worth. Looking at trademe prices (which have skyrocketed!) I would say around 8k but want opinions/to gather interest here rather than trademe so i don't have to deal with dropkicks.

The car is a 1992 black pearl with 165,000kms, running a low kms RB20DET on factory boost with manual trans (clutch near new), Front mount intercooler, 3 inch stainless exhaust, Tein coilovers, Autostrada Modena 16x7's and 16x8's. Fully serviced and looked after (cambelt, waterpump etc). Exterior a bit average in some spots but just waxed it and for the most part looks really nice! Interior is good apart from previous owners shitty stereo install. All vents etc.

Fully certified and road legal.

Any ideas?
Any interest?  ;D

General Performance / Will R33 diff fit an R32?
« on: March 13, 2015, 09:05:16 PM »
As per title, I'm looking at buying an R33 LSD cause it's cheap.

I am aware that they have different backing plates - but have heard the 32 plate will bolt directly onto the 33 diff?
I am also aware that the R33 diffs with ABS are longer - therefore only the non-ABS ones will fit easily?
I have heard that the 2 bolt-holes nearest the driveshaft are much bigger on the R33? Have heard GKTech make bushings for this but can't find them!

Would love to hear from someone who's done this swap before and can confirm that it's not hard! I just need to correct my speedo for cert and this kills 2 birds with one stone!  8)

General Performance / Diff ratios and speedometer readings
« on: March 12, 2015, 07:30:19 PM »
I've still got the standard GTS25 auto diff in my R32 which is a 3.5/3.6 ratio (RC35 on the blue plate, so i would assume that's right?), but the engine and running gear has been changed to rb20det - ever since then my speedo has been out a tad, which was never an issue until i went for cert and was pulled up on it.

At 100km/h my speedo reads 80km/h or thereabouts.
At 60km/h my speedo reads 50km/h or thereabouts.

Joe Kyle told me it was down to diff ratio - which made sense to me! He said that a 4.3 ratio LSD would correct the speedo as that's the factory diff for RB20DET's and because it's a higher ratio would increase torque and make the car generally feel quicker and more responsive.

So my questions are these:
Is a 4.3 ratio diff the factory diff found in R32 gts-t's? Google gives me varied answers
Is there anyone who can explain to me the correlation between diff ratio and the speedometer?
Will a 4.3 ratio diff correct my speedo if it was previously a 3.5?
Will an R33 r200 diff fit my R32?

General Skyline Discussion / Unique Anti-theft ideas
« on: March 06, 2015, 05:01:59 PM »
With all these skylines disappearing and turning into parts, i want to make sure mine is locked down - so i think we should have a thread dedicated to the pros and cons of some anti-theft ideas. I've given a few some thought already:

Steering wheel clamp

  • Cost effective
  • The sight of a clamp is a simple and effective deterrent - making a thieves job slightly harder might just turn them away
  • Quick and easy - just turn the wheels full lock towards the curb then clamp, that way the car can't simply be rolled onto a trailer

  • Notoriously easy to defeat

Wheel clamp

  • Harder to defeat than the steering wheel lock
  • Large, obvious visual deterrent makes it much less likely for a thief to even bother trying to take your car

  • Much more pricey than a steering wheel lock
  • No way near as discreet and easy to deploy as a steering wheel lock
  • Doesn't fit larger width wheels and perhaps some aftermarket ones - would make it a pain to even deploy in the first place

Alarm System

  • Central locking is sweet
  • LED lights in the dash act as another deterrent - the idea that breaking in might trigger an alarm could put a thief off depending on where the car is
  • High end alarms with multiple immobilisers really make a thief's life much harder if they actually DO get in
  • Easy to deploy

  • A badly installed alarm would be near useless if the thief knows anything about wiring/alarm systems
  • An alarm system doesn't physically stop the car from rolling/moving with the handbrake off if a thief can get inside

Kill switch

  • Easy to do. Easy to just splice in switches everywhere and to everything. Fuel pump, ignition etc.
  • Effective at what it does
  • Cost effective

  • It's difficult to place a discreet kill-switch. Running a wire from a factory location to a hidden spot is usually quite obvious, so it would take some time to install a properly hidden switch.

GPS Tracker

  • Excellent for hunting down cars if they've been taken

  • Some trackers rely on battery life - which means running out is an issue, others rely on a constant 12v from the battery - which means obvious wires are an issue
  • It might be difficult to place a GPS tracker in a subtle location whilst still being able to receive a solid signal

Mobile phone as a GPS tracker

  • Hiding a smartphone somewhere with GPS tracking enabled is a unique and cost-effective idea. The Android 'Device Manager' app lets you locate your phones position on a map by logging into either the google site, or the app from another smartphone using the same account as the lost phone
  • Cheap - smartphones can be picked up for as little as ~$50 nowadays

  • Battery life - GPS eats batteries, so it would be advisable to hardwire a car charger into the phone via either the head-deck or a constant power source
  • Phone must be hidden for this to work

Quick release steering-wheel

  • Simple and effective, simply remove the steering wheel and take it wherever you go when you park
  • Unless the opportunistic thief happens to have an identical steering wheel on him, driving the car away is going to be very difficult. Again it would be advisable to turn the steering wheel full-lock one way so even if they do break in, they can't roll it away
  • Because race car

  • I would assume with a collection of vice grips and spanners, a make-shift steering wheel could be made - however time consuming that would be (those with no power-steering might not have to worry here...)
  • If your car is meant to look factory the wheel might cramp your style

Bonnet pins/locks

  • Chuck a couple padlocks on your bonnet pins and it will make life a lot more difficult for any thieves looking to scavenge parts from your hard-earned ride
  • Cheap and relatively simple to install

  • Would imagine this would be easy to defeat with the correct power tools, although this would mean the car would have to be nicked first
  • Bonnet latches/pins look terrible on some cars...

Gear shifter/Pedal locks

  • Another visual deterrent, which would significantly slow down the process of stealing a car
  • Easy to use, simply attach lock and walk away

  • Hard to find here in NZ - no obvious auto/retail stores stock these, might have to be custom built

Chains and padlocks

  • Ability to get creative! e.g. Padlock round the brake pedal, one around the seat/seatbelt anchor and chain together
  • Cheap and easy, ability to create your own system

  • Bolt cutters do exist, however not many people openly carry them
  • Big and cumbersome, it's not easy or practical for some to just carry round chains and locks all the time
  • Time consuming to set up

VIN etching

  • Simple and annoying for a thief to have to deal with a car where the VIN number is etched all over the windows/car
  • Cheap, kits can be bought online easily enough for this

  • If someone is stupid enough to try and steal a car, they are probably stupid enough to overlook this in the rush of "oh meen, anofa free skizza"

What are your suggestions/experiences? Feel free to add to the list!

General Performance / Setting timing when cambelt is out 1 tooth
« on: February 26, 2015, 12:15:11 PM »
Ok so the timing on my 20det is being annoying,
The exhaust cam is advanced 1 tooth it seems, but i've been told that this isn't a big issue. The only problem is that now the timing readings are all weird/hard to read. I have a timing gun and am looping it round the white wire that sends to cylinder no.1 but i want to know, where should i set it with the CAS?
I know that 15 degrees is normal - but with the exhaust cam advanced 1 tooth, should i be altering the timing a bit to compensate?

Mechanic tweaked it (turned CAS counter-clockwise... so retarded it?) and now it doesn't feel nearly as beefy as it did.

There are 7 marks on the harmonic balancer - the 5th being 15degrees (at least to my knowledge) - where should i set it for best performance/safety ratio! haha

Forced Induction / RB20DET super slow off boost - timing? wastegate?
« on: January 18, 2015, 07:54:00 PM »
Now that my 20det is up and running i've noticed it's slow off boost. Like not just "haha it's an rb20 that's why" sorta slow, but like, struggles to move sort of slow. It seems to happen when the engine is cold. After a good run on the motorway it doesn't seem to be there/as bad (probably just normal rb20 speed)

Thing is, it's totally fine when it gets onto boost. It'll be sluggish as all hell until the turbo spools and then it just pulls like it should.

The engine is running off a 25de loom and radiator which share all the same plugs so i'm not sure if that'd be the problem.

Mechanic said the timing might be retarded but i checked it when it was at operating temperature and i adjusted it to ~15 degrees, and it still does it.

Could the wastegate be stuck open? Or maybe not closing fully?

Any other switches/electronics that could be causing this?

General Performance / Rb fuel pump compatibility
« on: January 16, 2015, 08:07:14 PM »
I have an RB20det, but i still have the RB25de fuel pump in the car.

Was just wondering if this is still ok? As the 25de and the 20det share so many parts already i figured it wouldn't be a problem but it sounds like the fuel pump is making a bit of a noise when it primes...

General Performance / RB20DET misfire/wiring troubles
« on: December 15, 2014, 10:46:56 PM »
Need some help. Haven't managed to fix this :s

Recently finished dropping an RB20DET into my previously 25DE skyline. Has been pretty straightforward and i've been damn nice to this engine. (new everything pretty much)

Now i re-used the 25DE loom because they share the same AFM and everything like that. There are two plugs that go no where in the engine bay.
Rest is all wired up and i got it running sweet first pop - it purs (also only downpipe at the moment, so quite loud...)

BUT i ran into 2 problems. Maybe linked, maybe not. Who knows.

Firstly - After about a minute or two of running, i got onto boost a little bit and it suddenly began misfiring and sounding like a wrx/rotary at idle.  I tried 3 different ignitor packs (don't ask why i have so many) and none helped. I swapped the coil loom to a different one but no help... Could it just be a dodgy coil? I was told they were all mint but who knows. Dodgy injector maybe?

Secondly - After turning the key to the ON position - i noticed that none of the interior gadgets were working. Radio, heater controls etc were all dead. Is there a plug responsible for all this that i may have missed?

Cheers for any help.

Forced Induction / What RB20DET intercooler piping am i missing?
« on: December 10, 2014, 11:17:55 PM »
I have an RB20DET that i've dropped into my r32 and it's almost done. Just need to hook up my intercooler, but i don't think i have enough pipes.

The engine only has factory turbo/elbow, and factory j-pipe.

The intercooler kit i have is this one:

What pipes am i missing? Also can i get aftermarket replacements of these pipes? Because i'm sick of mucking around trying to find factory replacements on trademe and whatnot. Cheers :)

Maintenance & Car Care / How do i mate my engine to my gearbox in the car?
« on: December 07, 2014, 10:21:12 PM »
As per title, it's being a biatch to bolt up my 20det to my gearbox that's in the car still.

I assume the clutch/gearbox shaft are aligned because it's quite far in the box, but the engine reached a point where it just doesn't want to go back anymore.

I've tried turning the engine over slowly by hand to try and get the splines aligned properly, but it's still just impossible to push back.

I've also tried putting a longer bolt into the gearbox to try and screw the two together forcefully but the bolt is too long and the thread runs out before it touches the gearbox... Sigh.

Any tips? Optimal angles etc? Help is muchly appreciated. I will reward you all with a video of it sounding filthy when i get this done!

Maintenance & Car Care / How do i remove my crank bolt?
« on: December 03, 2014, 03:46:38 PM »
I have my 20det sitting ready to be dropped into my 32 - but I'm gonna change the cambelt first because it's cracked and old looking.

Question is- how do i crack the crank bolt while the engine is out? It's currently sitting on tyres in my garage and there is no clutch or flywheel attached.

Is it easier to attach clutch/flywheel and jam that? I have a couple of rattle guns to use, so i think the main problem is going to be stopping the engine from turning over while i try crack it.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Maintenance & Car Care / RB20det engine lifting points
« on: November 17, 2014, 11:33:23 AM »
Where are the best points to attach a rope/chain to lift an rb20det?

Does anyone have any pictures to help?

Not too keen on dropping it on the garage floor...

General Skyline Discussion / Is Osaka Auto Parts a good store?
« on: November 11, 2014, 01:03:06 PM »
Looking at purchasing an engine - i know they're fairly pricey, but if i sell my current engine and some bits, it works out to be quite well priced.

Just want to know if anyone has any experience with the store? Seeing as I'm buying from Auckland, i want reassurance that it's a good store haha

Audio, Security and Electrical / What GPS tracker should i buy?
« on: November 06, 2014, 07:22:55 PM »
Seeing more and more on the internets these days about cars getting nicked, and it makes me want to invest in a GPS tracker - for if worst comes to worst.

What are the brands out there and what is best?

Also how are they installed - as far as i understand they use a sim card and a constant 12v power source? Does the sim card need money on it/need to be activated or anything?

Forced Induction / Where the hell do i buy an RB20DET?
« on: November 06, 2014, 11:00:25 AM »
I'm looking for a 20det because my car has 20det running gear with a 25de - so the conversion (as i've been told by a couple people) is literally just a drop in (minus ecu and exhaust and whatnot)

Problem is - i can't find one anywhere. I don't really want to spend $2k importing one because i don't think they're really worth quite that much? But i can't seem to find any decent second hand examples.

Do any of you have good contacts/know where i can get one for a decent price?

Pages: [1] 2