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Topics - Mantis

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General Performance / C33 Tacho Issue
« on: January 25, 2016, 02:36:19 PM »
Been a while since I've posted, decided to come back to hopefully find a source to this issue I encountered.

I bought a facelift manual cluster as I like the font on them, then found it isn't a straight swap over. I pulled the gauges out of the FL cluster and put them into the PFL one and left the fuel gauge til last, finding that it won't work. I left the PFL on it and put the FL cluster in, everything worked fine. I decided I would just stick with the PFL one instead of having FL gauges apart from the fuel one, put the original tacho back in and boom, not working. Replaced it with the FL one thinking I just f'd the PFL one and that one stopped working as well.

Any help? I hate electrical issues!  :'(

Maintenance & Car Care / Clutch disengagement issues.
« on: November 05, 2015, 05:46:44 PM »
Hey lads,

I'm having a bit of trouble trying to diagnose the issue my mate's having with his freshly converted S14. The issue is that the slave rod on the slave cylinder isn't protruding out far enough when the clutch pedal is depressed in order to move the release bearing enough to fully disengage the clutch, thus effectively having zero clutch. The pedal feels weird, it's not springing back fully and there's about an inch and a half of play where it does zero and within an inch from the floor it starts to have pressure. I probably just explained that like crap so in short, the clutch pedal only seems to have pressure about an inch from the floor, similar to how a heavy duty clutch feels, however the rest of the clutch pedal travel is like it's not even connected to anything.

At first I thought it might just need a bleed, which I told him to do and came out and helped him after he said he's bled it several times and no results. A bit of air came out when I helped him bleed it and the point of travel in the pedal where it moved the slave rod became stiffer, but it still had mountains of play left and was unchanged after bleeding both master and slave.

My current thoughts are the master cylinder has f**ked out, but I'm not that experienced with clutches. Any advice?

Naturally Aspirated / Utilizing N/A to it's full potential.
« on: September 15, 2015, 11:27:25 PM »
Hey forums;

Been doing a lot of research lately on how to get the most power out of an N/A RB engine. I'm wanting to go down a different path from typical turbos and have a crack at making a fairly quick N/A RB. I recently started to lose faith in decent power figures from N/As, until I read up on Skylines Australia that someone from NZ was running an RB30DE with 380HP at the rear wheels. I've been having a float for about 2 weeks now, dabbling onto sites and trying to pick information out that's useful but so far nothing but other people's power figures without lists of modifications or people telling them to just go DET.

I've bought a stripped 25DE head (with all the pieces, just disassembled) which is the first step towards the 30DE, but I'm hoping to pick the brains of those in my own backyard at what can really make a non-turbo scream. So far, I'm pretty set on getting the head ported and polished, hoping to get some numbers through that, and buying torque-happy cams is a definite on the list, though still need to research for the best option. This is an open thread, and my ideas are open to criticism, I'm hoping to get the most out of this 30DE so let all the knowledge flow on how to best milk an N/A. If the overall numbers don't meet what I'm expecting/hoping for, I'll just settle for a DET. I'd thought about building the engine to handle up to 10,000RPM (given it's even going to make power up to this point) and thought I'd give the team at R.I.P.S. a buzz to get their opinion on it. I was given a note to avoid skimming the head and rather replace the conrods with ARGO/Nitto Steel I beam rods, and that in order to continue making power past 6,000RPM was reliant on head work. I also managed to find a very informative article on Skyline's Australia which goes in-depth on how to get the most out of an N/A RB, which included things like cam regrinding etc. Source link posted below. By the looks of this article, the recommended path for high-power output is;

- Port and Polish
- Increase CR either via head skim, block skim, or different pistons.
- Reduce as much restrictions for air-flow and exhaust-flow as possible.
- Increase valve size.
- Camshaft regrinding.
Source link:

Feel free to share your knowledge on the topic below, will add all useful information to this post to help others in the future.

Naturally Aspirated / Port and Polish - Any good services in AKL?
« on: September 10, 2015, 11:13:09 PM »
Hey guys,

Finally getting the 30DE build underway, first step is to get the head ported and polished. Does anyone know a good company or guy to go through for this? Price is no object, if I don't have the cash now I'll wait til I do. Prefer great workmanship over price, and in Auckland :)


Hey lads (and possible lasses),

Just got a pay-out from work for leaving, so it's time to start some projects! :p I've been looking into putting S14 lower control arms in the front of the Laurel, from research they're 10mm longer than the factory C33 ones, and the ball joint must be changed as the S14 one differs from the generation of the S13/A31/C33 (different tapers).

Does anyone know anything else that might be helpful in this regard? Photos would be nice too! :D

As the title states, has anyone tried swapping WRX seats into a R32/A31/C33 chassis? I've done a little bit of research on the matter, and according to some guys over on SAU (the threads I viewed were 7 years old though,) the R31 rails are a straight swap onto the seats, allowing them to fit in R31s, however the R32/A31/C33 rails are more 'complicated' than just a standard switch over. I'm aware of the lop-sided mounting of the R32 seats, but would changing the rails over to the WRX seats mount these flat, or is it really harder than the theory?

I have a pair of seats at home, and I've taken the rails off my original seats, so I'll be (attempt to) swapping the rails over after course today. Will updated how it goes then. I don't want to cut, weld or modify anything on these seats if it's not a direct bolt on. :)

General Performance / R32/C33/A31 Braided Clutch Lines
« on: July 28, 2015, 12:13:55 AM »
Hey forum,

After a braided clutch set up for the Laurel, currently using an R33 which doesn't quite fit, did the job so far but want to tidy it up. Does anyone know any good places in Auckland area/Trade Me that make good quality ones? Not high balling but not going to skimp out on build quality to save me some penny.

It seems people aren't happy with having the OP at the bottom of the thread, and not many seem to now how to get it back to the common layout of having the original post at the top. Here's a quick 3-step guide on how to fix it!

1.) At the top right of the screen, hover over the 'Profile' tab, and click 'Forum Profile' from the drop-down list.

2.) At the top left of the page above 'Profile', hover over 'Modify Profile' and click 'Look and Layout' from the drop-down list.

3.) Untick the 'Show most recent posts at the top' bullet-point.

And voila! The first post of each thread will be at the top like the standard forum layout!

Picture Post / Mantis's Daily C33
« on: March 19, 2015, 01:27:01 AM »
Hey guys, been floating around the forums and been out to a few Fridays with SDU (none as of recent though) for almost 18 months now, and still haven't made a dedicated thread to the Laurel. Better late than never, right?

This is my 1990 Nissan Laurel C33 Medalist. Bought her as my first car, managed to score her for under $3,000 with such a straight body, and the somewhat rare colours of dark purpley maroon exterior with maroon interior. She ran with a semi-maintained RB20E with an automatic transmission, and utterly stock standard apart from a cheap crap-brand headunit.

It only took a couple of months before the urge to modify kicked in. I lowered it on Silvia S13 struts and springs all round, in which the fronts had been compressed before they were imported from Japan. Was real happy with the results, as it didn't require a cert, and didn't attract attention from the five-o.

After 5 months of ownership the automatic went pakaru after a night of filthy treatment at a mate's farm. As it was my daily for school, work etc. I needed it back on the road ASAP. I managed to score a manual conversion, with RB20DET gear for $900, and after all the extra costs for the spigot bush, oil, new boots etc. the whole conversion costed just over $1,100. On top of the new conversion, I'd picked up factory manual interior in the maroon colour for $180 - a steal in my opinion for a part I've only seen twice since owning the Laurel!

And so she was daily'd for a further 6 months after that, until the accident.  :'(

A rainy day, traffic, and sudden braking don't really mix, especially with tires that were probably at the end of their lives. A hearty nose-to-tail mashed the front-left of the car. I was guttered for ages, and almost turned to just flicking it off or parting out what good bits it had, but after getting over feeling sorry for myself, I got stuck in to getting her straight again. Managed to pick up the majority of exterior stuff for almost $300 delivered, though the panels were the wrong colour, and the paint at that was pretty rooted. However, they were really straight with hardly even shopping-trolley dents so I wasn't complaining. A mate had referred me to a local panelbeater, who even let me lend a hand which not only kept the cost down to a mere $350 for the full repair, but also let me learn a bit about how that sort of damage is pulled out. The main thing I was worried about after fixing it was that it was going to be crooked and not look straight anymore, but Alan did a fantastic job at straightening her out.

After a wave of inspiration from the internet, and an already piss-poor paintjob on the bonnet, I decided to go with a chalkboard bonnet. Came up quite good, though needs re-doing because I'm fussy as hell when it comes to my bae. It came into good use, and was widely appreciated by all ages groups from youth to elder after a friend of mine lost their mother to cancer.

I've signed up to take her out on the skid pan for a day in April for some fun, sideways (and legal!) action. Managed to pick up a welded differential for $40 and am having a mate try sort out some skinny tires so the mighty 20E can get loose! More photos to come as the story progresses.

Maintenance & Car Care / R33 Electrical Halp! :c
« on: January 29, 2015, 03:03:16 AM »
My mate recently purchased a 25DET R33. He said one day, the cluster and windows stopped working, which I later pinned to the Meters fuse being blown. I slapped another one in there, and set him on his way, but not 30 minutes after I'd fixed it, the darn thing had blown another meters fuse! Does anyone know where this wire leads or where a good place to start to look for breakage or deterioration in the wiring that would cause the circuit to short. Cheers in advanced!

General Skyline Discussion / Creative Gear Knobs
« on: December 21, 2014, 11:06:24 PM »
Hey guys, looking for some inspiration to do something creative for a gear knob. Post up some unique ones that you've all seen floating around! The best one that comes to my mind currently is the Dragon Ball one which I first saw on an S13. I've currently got a 10cm clear bubble one but it's hardly unique anymore.

Here's a DB one from Google;

General Performance / Need some welding done (Exhaust).
« on: September 03, 2014, 06:29:01 PM »
I managed to pick up a straight piped exhaust from Zebra off a Cef, $40 cheap as and it seems to make the ol' 20E sound quite filthy. However, the custom hanger they welded onto it doesn't fit in on the Laurel. Is anyone able to weld a hanger to fit or knows of a preferably cheap place to go to get this quickly done? Also, it sounds like it's leaking from the join at the cat, I remembered that there's suppose to be a plate or something that goes between the exhaust and the cat but I'm positive it's on there, so it may be a hole in the weld (hopefully not) or it might just be that it's missing.

In short, does anyone know of anyone cheap, or could possibly look at this exhaust I bought to see if it's suitable for a WOF and make it hang nicely from the car. :)

Auckland and North / Low Down Car Club Cruise - 20/9/2014
« on: August 27, 2014, 12:07:11 AM »
There's yet another LDCC cruise happening on the 20th of September. Sounds great as it'll be during the day, crossing those fingers for amazing weather! Below you'll find the general details of the event plus a link to it. Would be great to have us join them!

Everyone close to South Auckland area will gather at the Manukau Supa Centre - McDonald's car park at 12:00pm, then we'll cruise to Westgate in Massey and meet another group, in which we'll then leave together out to Muriwai Beach. [Edited what the original posted put as I believe English should be used rather than their excuse for communication]

Naturally Aspirated / 30e transplant.
« on: August 26, 2014, 12:00:12 AM »
Does anyone know the full story behind engine swapping a 20e to a 30e? What would I need in regard to parts, and is there any wiring or electronics such as the ECU that needs to be changed? In my mind I wouldn't think so seeing as the difference between the two (As far as my knowledge goes) is mechanical and wouldn't need changes like an ECU to run nicely - but in saying that I have no clue hahaha :p

I've asked on the Facebook pages but typically only idiots reply;

I'm interested in evening out the height of the Laurel, the rear is a little higher than the front sitting on S13 shocks and springs all round. Promaori told me that R32 front shocks in the rear fit and may lower it, but I'm still not sure. Does anyone know how much it will lower it by, if it lowers it at all? Everyone told me to get adjustables but I'm not too keen on the price for the set + a cert and I'd be keen just to try it out. Also any information on how they'll perform would be great :)

On top of that, does anyone know any other ways to lower the rear? I've considered compressing the springs but I'm not aware of how much that would cost or how it would improve/remove performance or ride stability. Any information would help guys :D

EDIT: Here's a link to the car from side on, not sure if it's obvious to you guys but the rear sits higher than the front and it irritates me haha.

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