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Messages - Phlex

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What mods are you certifying?  I certed for turbo, suspension, seats, adjustable arms, exhaust, manual conversion, HICAS delete etc and had minimal issues other than him not liking my interior driveshaft hoop washers and a few replacement suspension bolts that didn't have tensile ratings stamped on them (GK Tech ones too)

General Performance / Re: C33 Tacho Issue
« on: February 27, 2016, 04:08:30 PM »
check the contacts haven't folded over on the back of the cluster, its usually only a plastic sheet and all it would take is one of the contacts to be dirty or folded and not contacting.

Also are both the Tachos from a twin cam model? The RB20E rev counter wont work on an RB20DE / RB25DE / RB20DET without a resistor being soldered in line

General Performance / Re: stalling problem
« on: February 27, 2016, 04:05:51 PM »
Have you got a venting blow off valve? Mine did this until I put the standard one back on and no issues now!

4.3:1 is a perfect balance of torque and acceleration for street cars. Ive run 3.5:1 in a road car and that had awesome acceleration but absolutely no torque through corners etc.  Mate swears by a 4.6:1 serena diffs for drifting and it would have less wheel speed but a lot more torque available so perfect for keeping a skid going. 

I've tried a few ratios on the track as well and found 4.3:1 is adequate for acceleration and powering out of corners / barrel turns (grip racing / sprints)

General Performance / Re: Is this an LSD or open diff?
« on: January 22, 2016, 10:07:28 AM »
If you spin one axle and the other spins the SAME way it is an LSD, if it spins the OPPOSITE way it is NON LSD.

R180 LSDs are quite hard to find

Naturally Aspirated / Re: RB20e C33 Manual Conversion, Help!
« on: January 21, 2016, 02:58:20 PM »
Hey ive done these a few times on Skylines, Laurels, Cefiros and Silvias so have a fair idea of the process

Gearbox with shifter and bolts
Flywheel and genuine bolts or ARP replacements. Don't use others if you like your legs
Clutch pressure plate, clutch plate and release bearing with carrier plus bolts to suit
Manual Spigot Bush
Clutch pedal, master cylinder, slave cylinder with push rod and line to suit (I highly recommend using the braided lines for around $80NZ)
Manual brake pedal or cut your current one down with a grinder - can be done in place but would recommend taking it out due to sparks
Manual handbrake and cables to suit. Can use skyline one. You will also need the mount that is stitched into either a manual C33 or any R32
Driveshaft to suit your setup. Sometimes you can get away with swapping the front half and sometimes you need a complete shaft

You will need to bridge 2 wires on the side of the main fuse box in the engine bay to make the car start as it has a safety mechanism so you can't start it in drive. These are usually brown and black but will be the two biggest wires coming up from the auto trans loom.

Off-Topic / Re: This forum is just about dead, whats everyone up to?
« on: September 12, 2015, 12:36:42 PM »
I was wondering the same thing myself. I must admit I spend a lot more time on FB and actually working on my cars than I do on forums these days but it is still such a great way to get advice and read up on other peoples builds and ideas!

Off-Topic / Black Label Performance
« on: April 07, 2013, 06:42:36 PM »
I personally have purchased parts off BLP both from their website, off trademe and also by contacting Dave directly when I needed some spare parts ordered for my BC golds. I have never had anything less than exceptional service. Im certainly not going to let one human error change my mind about giving Dave the first opportunity to supply future parts that i need.

Forced Induction / R32 RB25DE+T - Advice?
« on: March 02, 2013, 09:29:21 AM »
Ive been gentle on it when driving, not letting it boost in higher gears and changing gears before 5k whenever possible.

Ive got some GTR injectors lined up and will get an adjustable fuel pressure reg.

25det turbo will go on before I get it tuned. Plan was always to get the factory ecu reflashed. Will probably stick with that idea, had looked into prices for chips but theres nothing that quite matches my setup

Forced Induction / R32 RB25DE+T - Advice?
« on: March 01, 2013, 09:50:23 PM »
Hey guys ive recently whacked a turbo on my RB25DE. I have gotten it running but am reluctant to fang it until ive sorted out all the niggly bits.

Current setup is:

RB20DET Turbo (internally gated)
7Psi actuator from 25det (appears to spike at 10psi sometimes)
Braided water and oil lines (running 1.4mm restrictor in oil line)
3" Stainless downpipe with seperate wastegate pipe that connects back in further down
FMIC with 2.5" alloy piping throughout
Walbro internal fuel pump
Blanked off BOV
Pod filter
Stock exhaust with decat pipe for now. Will be upgrading

On the standard RB25DE ECU it runs, but isnt flash but I am using a mates RB20DE+T Ecu, it boosts out fine in first and second but appears to be missing in third from 3k onwards, do I need to run a fuel pressure regulator or GTR injectors? Planning on getting a chipped ecu thats more suitable or getting nistune, looking into an RB25DET turbo also.

Any other advice would be appreciated

Just put a set of GTST (or poss z32) alloy brake calipers on my car and we have had massive issues getting it to bleed, I have narrowed it down to the R/F caliper leaking from where the two halves of the caliper bolt together. On the inside there are two small o ring type seals, does anyone know the part number or where to get these? The rest of the caliper has been re-kitted but these weren't done at the time.

General Performance / Manual conversion Issues
« on: May 19, 2011, 10:23:29 PM »
Hey Guys,

This is about my fifth manual conversion on a RWD nissan and the first time I have had issues.

1: Yesterday the car started (inhibitor has been bridged). Today it doesn't. I get a click from a relay in the interior fuse box but nothing else. I hadn't done anything different except I left the battery connected overnight when I haven't since I began the conversion.

2: Key is stuck in ignition, I cant push the release button. I have been told this is something to do with the plugs that were connected to the auto shifter. Can somebody please clarify?

I helped do the exact same conversion a few weeks back and that car has had no problems at all.

Thanks in advance,


I have recently gotten another R32 skyline, I am building it in to a cruisy daily.

I am donating the manual trans, adjustable suspension and low offset wheels from my other skyline to it.

I have 17x9s with a +17 offset on the rear running a 225/45/17. When I roll the lip of my rear guards up, there is about 8mm between my tire and my guard. (prev skyline was certed for 300mm +/-5% and it had been dropped to 285mm when measured and I will be dropping it another 10mm to get it certed this time as I had too much guard space in the front)

If I retain HICAS, what are the chances of my wheels hitting the guards?

Also what are the benefits of keeping HICAS? It appears to be a good working system, and I know that they can be problematic in the future.

if my cars still drivable after Port Road street sprints next weekend then I'l come along and meet everyone!!

General Skyline Discussion / LAUREL CA18(i) TO RB20DET CONVERSION
« on: January 16, 2011, 04:17:05 PM »
CA18I is Center Point Injected, not carby (otherwise it'd be a CA18S) so still runs as an EFI setup. You can use your factory fuel lines etc but the rubber sections in the engine bay need to be longer. The pump will run the motor but won't be enough for boosting.

I've done the conversion from a skyline GXi to a GTS25 setup and it is quite easy but as geoff said, the wiring is the worst bit!!

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