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Messages - Phlex

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Suspension, Steering, Braking, Wheels & Tyres / Converting C33 to 5stud
« on: August 29, 2010, 08:15:28 PM »
Somebody else here will be able to explain this further but my understanding of converting thr front of a C33/A31/S13 is that you need to pull the hubs apart and put 5 stud flanges in there from an S14 C35 R32 etc etc. The calipers should bolt straight on and you sometimes have to remove or modify the tin shield behind the rotor so it doesn't rub the larger discs depending on your stock brakes.

In the rear you should be able to put an R32 5 stud setup on with ease.

General Performance / Clutch noise
« on: August 21, 2010, 07:53:13 PM »
Okay pulled box back off, removed the thrust bearing, threw a new one on, this time greased it up a bit and greased the pivot point on the fork and also the inside of the bearing holder. Re-assembled and now it engages smoothly. It had started to make some marks on 3 of the fingers on the pressure plate so I am thinking it was sitting a bit weird. Glad as to have it all sorted now tho!!

Now to sort out the drift damage in the rear!!

General Performance / Clutch noise
« on: August 18, 2010, 08:05:50 AM »
Spigot bush looked to be in mint condition when I had the flywheel off. Thinking it must be the thrust bearing. I have been told by people in the past not to grease them up as they are a sealed unit, can somebody please confirm this?

Was hoping not to have to take the box off again but if it has to be done it has to be done.

Also, there are a few different forums around saying to use various amounts of oil in the gearbox, my fill bung is stuck in so can anybody tell me the exact amount?

General Performance / Clutch noise
« on: August 17, 2010, 09:37:54 PM »
Replaced it with a brand new one. Mate thought it might have been that, it seemed like it was on the carrier perfectly when I did it, is that a likely cause?

General Performance / Clutch noise
« on: August 17, 2010, 08:35:26 PM »
Okay somebody must have come across this before. I just did the clutch in my GTS25. While I was at it, I threw in a new master cyl (identical to the one that was in it) It drives mint now with the exception of sometimes when I put the clutch right in I can hear a slight but noticable wirr like its rubbing against something. I can feel this through the gearknob too. I had originally had the adjustment wound right out so it bit half way down the pedal but have also tried adjusting it half way in so it bites just up from the bottom of the pedal (this makes it have a real soft pedal which is poo!)

Orig clutch was an RPM63N and replaced with the Exedy Equiv but re-used the RPM pressure plate.

Has anyone come across this before? Getting stressed at it coz I dont want to damage it by driving!

General Performance / R32 Diff Questions
« on: August 01, 2010, 10:32:27 AM »
Geoff is correct, its a learner day Ben is putting on to replace the Catch My Drift days that used to run every 2 months. Its a good chance to get some decent track time without worrying about 19 other cars waiting in line for the track as he limits numbers to 8 or 10.

General Performance / R32 Diff Questions
« on: July 30, 2010, 09:30:26 PM »
Got me a 4.3 Open out of a factory manual GTS25 Coupe today for cheap. bit late to get it welded up for sunday now so I will just run the 3.9 for one last weekend. :)

Does anyone know where I can get a 21 tooth speedo bit?

General Performance / R32 Diff Questions
« on: July 26, 2010, 09:48:03 PM »
Cheers Guys! Will look for a 21 tooth speedo drive and also a 4.3 or 4.6 diff to lock for this weekend!!

General Performance / R32 Diff Questions
« on: July 25, 2010, 09:22:24 PM »
Okay, my car is a factory GXi. I have converted it to an RB25DE and RB20DET G/box + flywheel + clutch and it is running the stock driveshaft.

Rear tire size is 215/45/17 (which I assume is the correct size for the car)

When I did the conversion there was a random gear-like box sitting in line of the speedo sensor in the gearbox, I discarded this when putting the RB20DET box in.

Originally it had a R180 3.9-1 open diff. This has been locked.
Now it has a R200 4.3-1 Viscous LSD.

When im running the 3.9, the speedo reads correctly, that diff is only usually in when I head up to slipway.

When I run my 4.3 which is most of the time, the speedo reads 60 @50 and 120 @100.

What diff SHOULD my setup be running?

Reason i'm asking is I am considering buying a 2 way and want to get one that will do the lot. I want to be able to have good speed on the street and track but enough torque on the drift track. I have been told that the 3.9 isnt the best diff for the track but it seems to do alright.

Introductions / New Member Welcomes / Phlex
« on: July 21, 2010, 06:13:50 PM »
Quote from: BADHAB|T;502107
Not only going hard, going sideways!
Love to see that car in its factory GX-i trim do that haha

I once got the CA18I to slide about 5m round a corner handbrake assisted before bogging down haha. Good riddance to that boat anchor!

I'l fire up a pic of the car how it was when I got it when I find one, it was primered then clearcoated with rusty bits and dents. Has had a fair bit of panelbeating to get it to where it is but its mint now, considering it was brought to be a caged driftp!g !!!

Introductions / New Member Welcomes / Phlex
« on: July 18, 2010, 07:59:53 PM »
Quote from: samos69;501925
Welcome to the forums! All this repowering, you didn't want to go turbo at some stage?

Ideas been there but it holds its own at slipway at the moment but i'm definitely planning on turboing it in the future. Hoping for an RB26DETT conversion but would settle for an RB25DET.

Fresh Paint Job, Old wheels

A few pics from a small day at slipway in may

Introductions / New Member Welcomes / Phlex
« on: July 15, 2010, 09:50:31 PM »
Hey everybody!

Names Nate, drive a 1993 R32 Sedan.

Car started life as a GXI factory Manual (Ex jap driver training car) but after driving it for a few days and overheating it 6 times, I decided to convert it to RB20DE manual. Got it all going and got a full panel and paint and within 2 months had blown the RB20DE up due to its lack of wanting to drift at slipway.

The RB20DE was replaced with a low K RB25DE from a GTS25 Auto and has made a huge improvement with drivability and skidability when required.

Aside from the engine conversion and fresh coat of paint, car is almost standard aside from a full exhaust, some ISC Coil Overs and a set of low offset 17x8 / 17x9 alloys.

I have also owned an S13 180SX (track only), an A31 Cefiro, a C33 Laurel Diesel, 92 Vtec Prelude, 83 City Turbo, U12 Bluebird SSS and about 15 others :)

I work as a sales rep for Extreme Automotive (19 Railway Ave, Lower Hutt and 42 Adelaide Road, Newtown, Wellington).

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