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Messages - StageFumer11

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Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, UPDATE!!!
« on: December 07, 2014, 09:33:41 PM »
New Seats to go in soon, Acquired some RECARO Fishnets. oldshool goodness

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 11:26:09 PM »

Back to the engine bay, the rivnut tool had arrived. After figuring out how to use it, I opened up the radiator mounting holes to fit the rivet nuts using a step drill bit, de-burred the hole, then covered the fresh metal edge with some zinc paint. I also covered the other little holes along the top support just as some extra protection.

And rivnut sitting nicely in the hole as a test fit.

This tool is very cool! It means you can install additional mounting points on the panel work without having to weld something in or using existing mounting points. The tool is large, but I will most likely get a smaller rivet tool for tighter areas.

On to some more mounts, this time exhaust hanger mounts and trigger wheel sensor mount. For the exhaust hanger mounts, I had some 5mm steel strips sitting around, so cut those up to create some plates. While some of you may question having such thick steel, it's just stuff I have lying around the garage to use for these little jobs. And the more weight I add to Nick's car, the greater my performance advantage against him ;) The box section was used for the trigger wheel sensor mount.

I like to pre-drill various holes before cutting the metal as it is generally easier to position the metal when it isn't a cut and mis- shappened mess after I have finished with it.

While I was doing more metal work, I welded those mounting tabs onto the intercooler pipe

The box section turned into this. A vertical piece for attaching to factory mount points (assuming an AC pump resided there previously) and a horizontal piece. Took a little while to tap the threads clean on all 4x mounting points, even though I'm only using 2x. Never know if I have to use them later..

Holesaw cut through the horizontal piece pretty well with some cutting fluid

 tapped a M6 thread into the attachment hole. I will use a nut as well as the thread in the mount to hold the sensor in place.

So that is most of the progress thus far. Just some final things to finish up before I push Nick's car out of my garage and onto the road for him to collect ;)

- finish up the exhaust mounts
- finish the trigger wheel sensor mount
- re-align the rear bumper supports to sit bumper up 25mm more
- drop gearbox to fix up some bolts and determine starter engagement.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 11:22:50 PM »

A month drifted past and Nick came over to push the car (and me) along.
Time to finish the radiator mounting. Nick had slightly changed how the radiator mounted at it's base since it had been at my place and the next step was to finish up the mounts at the top. Nick cut up some 3mm aluminium strips, took some measurements, cut, drilled and filed and ended up with these mounting tabs. Originally we were trying to mount the tabs to existing holes instead of creating holes in the paint job, but that was proving too complicated for the application.

Nick drilled the holes but I asked the question: if we use a bolt to hold the tab, how will we access the nut from the underside if it is inaccessible? (from this angle, you can see the radiator support cross member is enclosed from the front and the radiator covers if from the rear)
Answer - install nut rivets :) of which I then had to buy the tool.. (yay more tools which Nick will use better than I can..)

While Nick was playing with the radiator mounting, I was working on finishing up the exhaust. The exhaust was sitting over the subframe, but I had not finished the mount to hold this section of the pipe as I had become a little stuck in how to fabricate the mount. Anyway, I decided on making something relatively simple and if it didn't support the weight, then I'd make something else later down the line. I had to keep moving forward in fabricating the rest of the pipe work.

This tab was mounted on to the exhaust pipe as it goes over the subframe. Sorry, no other pics at the mo, I was concentrating on getting this exhaust finished. More pics later :)

Nick was still busy in the engine bay, this time mounting the coil pack bracket. Again, Nick's eye for detail comes in as he shaped the tab to the shape of the opening on the rocker cover.

He also gave the front reinforcement bar a coat of zinc protection

Slowly but surely the car is progressing. Radiator tabs finished up and they hold the radiator nicely. Some rubber bushings will be added later to reduce the vibration.

Coil packs mounted

You can see why Nick chose to shape that mounting tab as he did :)

As the coil pack bracket mounts had changed and the PS pump moved rearwards, Nick cut shortened the length of the bracket. I did ask whether he wanted to do this to his rare R30 parts, but he said it was a standard RB coil pack bracket so it wasn't an issue. And here I was thinking that the car had parts that were rare and irreplaceable.. bloody RB stuff..

Nick also measured up some intercooler piping brackets for me to weld on.

To push the exhaust fabrication along, I had to get Nick to drop the subframe down to allow me to test fit the subframe pipe in and out while finalising the mount. Also with the subframe dropped down, I could weld the flange onto the pipe and start the rear section of the exhaust.

While I mucked about mounting the subframe pipe, Nick inspected the rear end. He removed the rear brakes and hoses, bumper and bumper supports. Brake hoses were cracked and will need to be replaced, even though they were custom made and never used. Nick also reviewed the spacers he was using and the decision has to be made to replace them or not use them. More to come on that later.

With the subframe mid pipe mounted, I could start on the final section of the exhaust. Just to give a little background, Nick had wanted to use a dual 3" tip muffler/resonator at the rear of the car for a desired look. Unfortunately we couldn't find a unit that suited his needs and budget, and for the units we could find, they were either not in stock, or low quality.

In the end, Nick settled on an Apexi N1 Evolution-R universal 3" muffler as it is a quality built unit, was well priced and because I forced him to make a decision :P

Once we got the muffler, Nick positioned the unit on some axle stands to get the desired angle and position. But alas, working under the car on the rear pipe section, I moved it / bumped it countless times until I marked out the axle stand orientation, and muffler position with some tape so I could reset the position everytime I moved it ;)

***Photos on the phone, but I'll update this post later***
These are a sample of the photos I took for Nick to get the positioning correct. I'd take a photo, send it off and then he'd let me know the position to move the exhaust to.

This section of the exahust goes over the drive axle and will angle the exhaust up and to the side

I welded up the right angle and made continual adjustments until I got the position mostly correct. I then aligned the exhaust into it's final position, ensuring I kept the engraved logo on the tip straight and then marked up for welding to the 45 degree pipe. I then set up the exhaust for welding the 45 degree on to the muffler.

After some more test fitting, I had to add an additional 19mm spacer to get the fitment and angle just right.

Then it was the challenge to weld the rear section together. This was set up to get some spot welds in place.
img resize stagefumer_200.jpg /img

I then stuck the pipe into the vice to finish up the welding. When welding, you have to get used to welding in funny positions. This position had me leaning backwards. Thick leather gardening glove is used to protect against heat.

From this angle, you get a sense of what the final back section will look like. Tilt your head so that the exhaust tip points up and that is what the final result is :)

Welding stainless to mild steel is done with stainless rod. For a while I had to scratch start the tig and I couldn't figure out why. The next day (when it wasn't late at night and I wasn't tired) I noticed I had flipped the switch to stick welding... duh! Job got finished anyway

Overall it took around 4 nights to measure / cut / test the rear section. Next step are the hanger brackets and then the exhaust will be finished :)

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 11:16:23 PM »
So it's been a little while since I have updated, even though the work was done back in mid September. Having started a new job, my time has been consumed with acclimating to my new role and environment and I haven't had the energy to work on Nick's car.

Nick and I have an understanding about each others priorities and what takes precedence in life, and as a lot of this work is being done in our spare time, work needs to be scheduled into that little bit of spare time, which I am sure you can all appreciate.

But with some recent progress and being so close to finishing, I thought it would be a good time to do an update :) With this update, I'll be going a little more in depth with my thought processes as there are some valuable insights to be gained for others. While these may be car specific, I tend to think more generalised,


Nick got a pass out of the house to work on the car, and we decided to knock off a big step in the build - mounting the Professional Products SFI 90055 crank pulley / harmonic balancer. Some previous internet research had observed installation issues due to the tight tolerances between the crank snout and the pulley ( ... all/page-2 ). After considering sending the pulley back to the engineers to get machined out for an easier install, we proceeded to go through the installation without machining.

As noted earlier, we had moved the PS pump rearwards, created the water outlet block off plate and we ready to install the crank pulley.

With my cheap digital callipers, Crank snout = 35mm, crank pulley hole = 34.86mm, which is comparable to other people's measurements.

Decision point: Machine or not
Consideration: additional time and cost to shave 1mm internal diameter vs getting the job done now
Result: Get on with the job at hand using recommended techniques such as heating pulley for easier installation

Pulley in a pot with water, brought up to boiling and left for 20 mins to simmer (say it like a chef, it's funny :P )

So with a hot pulley, we tried the installation using a rattle gun and the bolt/washer. Initially we didn't have the key aligned with the pulley (Nick had previously glued the woodruff key into the crank key slot) so were only able to mount the pulley a certain depth before it stopped. Due to the tight fitment, it took us a little while to get the pulley back off, slowly leveraging it off the crank by tapping with a mallet an leveraging the other side with the shaft of a large screwdriver

Bad pic - sorry. Dark line internally is how far the pulley was mounted onto the crank before stopping due to the keyway mis-alignment. Picture also shows initial taper of the hole to allow fitment onto the crank snout.

After thinking about the alignment issues, we decided that we should set the crank key at 12 o'clock to ensure we had better alignment from the start. Previously the key was set at around 10 o'clock, causing us to try to mount the pulley off centre - small things to consider when doing these things.

So after heating up the pulley again, aligning the pulley and keyway, we started the installation again. The use of a rattle gun is definitely required as there is no way we could have done this manually with a power bar or ratchet spanner. And it took a decent amount of time slowly edge the pulley onto the crank with the rattle gun. Heating the pulley didn't seem to make much of a difference and the pulley only went on with the rattle gun torque. I don't even want to think about getting the pulley off after mounting this thing!

Before we completed the pulley mounting, we encountered another issue - the crank bolt was too long! The bolt was made for a 2 rib pulley, not for a single rib. The crank pulley bolt would have to be shortened to suit.

Some measurements were taken with the bolt insitu and removed to calculate how much the bolt had to be shortened by. Around 10mm was taken off the end.

Before cutting the bolt, Nick put on a thread die onto the shaft, Then placed the guide tape after measuring. Note: Nick uses my tools better than I do haha. By putting on the die before cutting, the thread can be cleaned up easily moving from the bottom up the thread, instead of trying to start new threads from the top and not aligning properly. Clever bugger.. :P

Hacksaw used to ensure that no excessive heat is introduced into the bolt causing potential metal fatigue. So tempting to use the angle grinder with a cutoff disc, but not worth the hassle later on if something did go wrong.

Top of shaft cleaned up with a file

Die wound up the shaft to cut new threads with cutting fluid used as lubrication. Seriously Nick uses all of the stuff in my garage better than I do :( I'd normally file the shaft end, use a thread file to start the threads, cut with the die and not use cutting fluid - just the little things to learn as part of the work flow.

After crank bolt cut, we continued to push the pulley on with the rattle gun, eyeballing and measuring the belt channel to the other engine components. And finished!

Overall the pulley installation took us a couple of hours and was relatively straight forward using a rattle gun, aligning the keyway/pulley and cutting down the crank bolt. It just takes a hell of a lot of torque to press the pulley on to the crank. If we had machined the pulley hole, it may have made it slightly easier while still maintaining the press fitment, but it can be done without machining. We also didn't observe any gouging of either the crank or the pulley in the form of metal shavings during the installation, which I believe is attributed to a nice crank snout profile ie no damage or weathering.

And just to make it more interesting, Nick mounted the trigger wheel to see how it would look :)

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 11:11:44 PM »
So work has slowed down a little due to a plumbing leak in the garage forcing me to move stuff around, making it impossible to work on the R30.

Thought I'd post up the most recent work before I start the finish of the car over the next couple of days.

To mount the muffler, I had to build some brackets. Previously I had seen the mounting of exhaust component on race cars which was a bit different to hanging the exhaust in various ways.
With this car, there were no factory mounting positions that I could see and Nick had said that the factory exhaust was basically solid mounted to the car, so I made do with any existing factory studs on the vehicle.

Bracket fabrication out of 1.6mm steel. Box section and gussets give the mount some strength as I was worried about potential flexing of the mount.

And with the cotton reel bushing and a hanger plate which attaches to the car. Mounting bracket was made out of some box section I had lying around and I took advantage of the box to provide strength to the body mount.

Started on the other bracket with more box section. A bit fiddly to do, but turned out well.

Mouting holes were pre-drilled before cutting

Exhaust mount sits like this on the hanger mount.

Due to width of the bushing, I had to cut the lower box section away to flat and then add more steel to create a semi box section for strength.

Added in a plate on the back to provide torsional strength

Added gussets and reinforcement to the muffler bracket

Welded hangers to the muffler

ick has decided he wanted power steering on the car. The new powerforce 90055 harmonic balancer / crank pulley only has provision for one belt, so we were initially looking at additional pulleys to be fabricated to utilise the power steering.
The alternative way while looking and thinking about the solution, was to move the PS bracket and pump backwards so the belt lines up with the crank pulley and alternator. Unfortunately there is a water outlet behind which needed to be blocked off.

Nick had previously elongated the holes to move the bracket to the next mounting point on the block.
I made a steel plate up which covered the water outlet and fit with the mounting holes then used a sealant to bond the steel plate to the block. Plate was painted with engine block paint before affixing to block (not shown)

Next part was to support the downpipe to reduce stress on the turbo flange and wastegate outlet.
Took some measurements and made up a support out of 1.6mm steel which attaches to a bolt for the gearbox to block housing.

Ensured I left 5mm on the bracket dimensions to bend over a flange for additional support. Would have liked to dimple die the support, but I don't have dimple dies and none of my bearing races fit together like a dimple die does.

Test fit on flange I had previously welded to downpipe - success. There are two holes in the support and on the DP flange for mounting.

Welded up corner of support flange to tie it altogether.

Welded in the O2 sensor mount.

Muffler to rear section of the car needed a bit of a curve to align with the back section I had previously welded. Ideally I wouldn't have created all the bends but as the muffler was already purchased and I couldn't change the outlets, I really wasn't left with much choice.

My welding is getting better with more practice.

Hot stuff!

And S bend welded on to the muffler.

Coil pack bracket used a bolt to hold both pieces together. Time to get rid of it.

Used some box section to align the brackets before welding.

And bottom and top welded up.

So that concludes this update. Time to get working on the car and get it out of my garage :)
Catch up soon, Dave

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 11:00:58 PM »

Dump pipe was still sitting a little too low and after discussion with Nick, the decision was made to try and lift the exhaust system as high as possible underneath the car. I traced a cut line with a flange as it was exiting on an angle down. This cut raise increased clearance by approx 10mm.

Metal clean up time. As you can see from the flange on the far left, there was a decent build up of rust on the flanges. I welded on the side with the most pitting to ensure the flange had a better mating surface with the gaskets.

I welded on another extension piece to the dump pipe to push the flexi back into the cavity on the underside of the car. Originally I was going to mount a 3 bolt flange on to the recently cut dump pipe and use it as a mounting mount for a support I was going to make to attach the dump pipe to the gearbox. But then after thinking about it, I would negate the clearance I had scavenged back due to the flange depth. A straight pipe angled slightly up would allow me to keep the clearance at a reasonable height, even with the depth of the flange and flexi included.

Prep for welding the flange onto the dump pipe. I'll have to make and weld on a mount to attache the dump pipe to the gearbox. Flexi on wastegate allows for heat expansion. Mount on dump pipe to gearbox will support weight of exhast system to the join and flexi. Flexi is located near the driveshaft connection and gearbox mounting point.

All up, the exhaust system is solid mounted to approx the rear gearbox mount point and driveshaft connection allowing the engine and box to move as one and allow the exhaust to move as required. Makes sense in my head..

flexi and muffler tacked in. Extension pieces initally welded onto the flange and muffler before being positioned with flexi in situ. Angles of piping was consider to ensure muffler is away from driveshaft and into cavity as much as possible. Rear subframe pipe in place to locate muffler in preferred position (not much room when you start adding stuff under there). Flange and muffler have approx 10-12mm clearance from underside of car. Can't see it but at the rear corners on right are a) an exhaust shield protectin the centre driveshaft bearing mount and b) the cavity tapering in. If I had moved flexi forward more, then clearance from road would have been reduced, and I don't want to weld in another flexi..

19-Aug-2014, 1.30am

ended up with this. As you can see, the extension on the flexi has an angle on it to connect to the dump pipe. Whole bunch of fun trying to position everything for best clearance and getting it all to fit under the car.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:58:51 PM »

I like to clean up all the metal before welding using a paint stripping disc. Rust just doesn't do it for me.

So the exhaust that Nick and I were looking at on Ebay didn't happen. Item was in Australia, but he wanted to sell me a unit from Japan (where he is located). Too much in shipping from Australia to NZ - and Japan wouldn't be worse?? Decided to get stuck into it and just start fabricating what we needed instead of waiting around.

Started with a right angle bend and I cut through the centre of the bend to create 45 degree bends. Then I rotated to get the S bend I wanted to get up over the subframe.

Tack welded to test.

Idea is there, but the bend sits low for now.

Cut the tacks out and measured an extension piece to raise the exhaust above the subframe.

Tacked it up and test fitted successfully, so welded in the extension.

Added the next piece putting the exhaust over the rear driveshafts.


Nick came around to help out on the car and view some of the work completed so far. I made him ground various welded bit to his satisfaction.

Back to the engine bay, previously the hole on the passenger side was too tight for the intercooler piping. Nick opening up the hole with larger holesaw, cleaned and primed the edges and covered with edge trim (I seem to have too many things in my garage which seem to be getting used on this car..)

Air grinder used to clean up the other hole on the drivers side, primed then edge trimmed.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:54:30 PM »

Started fabricating the wastegate outlet to the exhaust. Needed to tack weld in an extension so I could rotate the joiner to sit flush with the external face of the dump pipe.

Remounted dumppipe, wastegate and flexi in situ and then positioned the wastegate outlet and traced out my cut.

Welded up the wastegate joiner


Cut hole out carefully using a dremal and small cutting disc. Tried a big cut with an angle grinder and cutting disc but the size of the disc was too large to go all the way around. Air grinder removed the rest of the metal. Stayed a couple of mm inside the line to ensure that the joiner pipe had purchase on the dump pipe. Checked inside to ensure there was no lip limiting flow.

Tacked in and test fitted again.

And the tack welds came off for the joiner to be repositioned. A couple of mm lower than it should have been

Tack welded on the car and then more tacks to prevent movement while welding

Welded flexi on to the joiner after tack weld while mounted on the car. Another funny welding position

And all mocked up on the car. In hindsight, I should have mocked up everything together as the flexi is in a tight position relative to the dump pipe and the sump. Would have added more time for mock up and test fitting, but I'm getting hang of this workflow and what I need to be aware of (first time I have done all this stuff btw).

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:50:11 PM »

So the dump pipe was hanging a bit low. Concern was if going over a speed bump, the dump pipe would get scrapped and eventually destroyed. I ended up taking 15mm out of the centre section and getting rid of my initial weld as it was ugly anyway.

Daylight pic of the dum pipe looking down. It is has clearance for the control arm mount and the engine block.

Welded up the dump pipe to the turbo outlet flange. Outlet goes from 2.5" to 3" pipe. Not ideal as I'd prefer to taper to a 3" exhaust, but it should do the job with no major issues.

Welded the wastegate outlet onto the cast T3 adapter. The manifold was put on many strange angles to get in to do the welding.


And test fitted up. Kind of lucky that the wastegate fits as I didn't actually tack up and it would have been an issue if I screwed up.

I had previously cut up an insert to fill the old wastegate hole out of 6mm mild steel and I welded it in.

Test fit with the wastegate in place. Good clearance from the block and the oil return port on the sump.

With the dump pipe sitting higher, there is more clearance for speed bumps. Fingers crossed, there is minimal scrapping. Hard to judget the height the car will sit at with the car on jack stands.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:46:05 PM »
So I've spent nearly 4 hours getting all this info up, so no work on the car today. Some things Nick and I have discussed over the last month are:

- Potential for old wiring to be corroded or not usable. This was evident in the coil pack wiring where the copper had oxidised (apart from the hack job).
- Couple of options for wiring:
a) use current wiring and trace all connections/relays using manual and multimeter - takes a long time to figure out factory wiring (something that I have done on my car)
b) replace OEM wiring with hot rod wiring kit with relays and fusebox - saves time but costs money. Still need to trace various wiring but not to degree of tracing OEM

Wiring Solution: we went and got a hot rod wiring kit. Lower risk of corroded wires and shorter time to implement into the car.

Gauge Cluster (subset of main body wiring):
- Nick has aftermarket gauges. While the wiring to the cluster could be traced/determined, it provides no significant benefit, especially when other gauges for oil pressure, boost, water temperature, etc. will need to be installed.
- Remove old cluster and make a panel to mount new gauges to (I am currently doing the same job on my car).
- what to use for warning lights (hence the previous pictures)

Gauge Cluster Solution: watch this space ;)

Exhaust (from cat-back):
- wait for guy on e-bay to respond
- Buy some extra bends, 12mm rod for hangers, muffler and I fabricate what is required for a 3" exhaust

Exhaust solution: Purchase extra materials and build what we need. Can't be bothered chasing person for rear exhaust section. I needed to build to the rear section anyway, so I needed to purchase some materials anyway. May as well buy in bulk and just get the thing finished.

Everything else (and there is a bit..) - figure it out later. Concentrate on short term in getting the turbo and exhaust sorted. Then focus on the next lot of jobs on the list. Wiring will be one of the last major jobs on the car. Maybe seat mounts, but we'll see.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:45:30 PM »

So after I finished making the hole round, I turned my attention to the turbo and dump pipe. I dismantled the exhaust side of the turbo so I could work around the manifold and engine bay a little easier. Not the best shots of the turbo exhaust side, but it has been bored out to accommodate the larger Holset HX40 exhaust wheel.

Another thing of interest was the smaller outlet of the housing. Ideally we would have a 3" to 3" or 2.5" transition to a 3", but this will go from 2.5" to 3" without any transitions. If there is a need to change in the future we can do it, but for now, we'll just focus on getting the car up and running.

Mounting the manifold and exhaust housing on the car, it was time to measure the dimensions for the dump pipe. Green tape to protect the paint (a wider green roll was used, small roll just sitting around hanging off a filter haha). Plenty of room for the dump pipe!


In preparation for the wastegate flanges to be welded, there was a bunch of brown gunk on the WG inlet flange. So I carefully scrapped off with a blade.

Back to the wastegate hole again *sigh. So the nominal outer diameter (OD) of the exhaust pipe we are using for the extension is 51mm. The hole I made for the wastegate hole is 51mm, ie a standard pipe fits nicely. Unfortunately, where the pipe is bent into curves, the OD is around 49.5mm. So much for mandral bends. To solve this, I'll have to tig both the inside and outside of the pipe to ensure it is strong and sealed properly.

As you can see from this example using the WG flange: 51mm pipe = good fitting

On the bend, there is a decent sized gap to fill :( 49.5mm OD on the bend = no good fitting. Looks like I'll have to tig the inside as well..

Test to see if I can get the torch in.

Time to weld! To be honest, I haven't picked up a tig torch in, maybe a year. I bought a MIG to tack weld stuff in place, but the gas inlet was a smaller sized barb in comparison to the regulator barb, so I had to go chasing a plastic hose reducer so get up and running. Got sick of mucking around with the MIG and setup for TIG. Lay down a couple of passes on some scrap then, cleaned everything up with some isopropyl alcohol and got to welding. Not too bad a job, especially since this is the first time I have welded stainless.

Tacks down, 2nd pass I think.

WG and dump pipe welded up. Dump pipe was a little haphazard due to dirtymetal ( i rough up with a angle grinder with paint removal disc first, wire brush down and then isopropyl. Obviously not enough..). WG turned out decent.

Tack welded the dump pipe onto the outlet flange. Will need to move the dump pipe towards the gearbox more as it is a bit close to the steering arm/mount.

Anyway, by this time, I was starting to run out of Argon, so I packed it in for the night.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:39:32 PM »
So after some weeks of working on my Celica ST185 RC and humming and haa-ing about how to get this hole cut, we both looked at other areas of the car to get sorted. Just some shots of the bay and car sitting in my garage doing nothing for a couple of weeks.

It's been bitterly cold recently, and not much work has happened. It's pretty low motivation to work in the garage that ranges between 6-11C. Anyway I went with the tried and true method of drilling a series of holes and cutting out the excess portion. Then cleaning up the hole to the right dimensions.

First remove the old wastegate flange and extension. Extension came off first.

Measuring the WG hole size, it was a pitiful 32.5mm internal diameter. This could be considered a lesson in that these cast units are not the largest in size, especially if advertised as 35 or 38mm

Next step was to remove the casting for the flange. Using a cutting disc and grinding disc, I removed the main flange and then sliced the remaining casting so I could chisel/bend out the remaining bits.

As Nick wants a 3" exhaust, I had to get under the car and measure if the exhaust would be able to fit between the subframe and body. Initially we had planned to run the exhaust under the subframe, but after measuring this again, I am confident that we can get the exhaust through this space with no issues.

Some inquiries have been made to get a 2nd hand 3" exhaust from the cat back, shipped from Australia to New Zealand, but the guy hasn't got back to me, and as I'm in the fabricating mood, I'm just going to fabricate what we need. For me, I tend to save time and effort by spending the money to get the parts needed. This isn't as easy for Nick, with his young family and all, and as I am not working, I can afford the time to spend fabricating stuff up. More mucking about, but it will be cheaper for Nick.

90mm space should give a decent amount of room for movement. We'll use brand new poly hangers to minimise sag of the exhaust. If we used the original hangers and bushes, then the exhaust will knock. May as well spend a little to minimise issues later.

Hole traced out ready for drilling and cutting the holes out. Had a couple of false starts as my drill bits were dull, but after getting a sharp drill bit, the process was much quicker. Always pays to use cutting oil for these types of jobs.

It took a while to slowly cut out the holes. I was at the drill press for a couple of days, positioning and holding the manifold in places while trying to secure it with G clamps. Quite a mission to secure the manifold due to the weight.

I quickly turned my attention to the muffler. An extension was welded on previously for his original plans of a side exhaust. The welding wasn't even finished on it, so it was reasonably easy to clean up and remove the extension.

Here is the extension I had previously welded to the turbo outlet flange. Spot welds removed with a 1mm cutting disc.

Back to the WG flange. Using chisels and a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, I managed to remove the centre section. Man that was a pain in the... had to make a wooden flange so the jigsaw wouldn't bounce around. Otherwise it was using a small round file to cut the the sections between the drill holes. Finally out though.

Then I did something rather silly. I started hand-filing the excess material out to make the WG hole round. 4 hours later, and this is where I ended up. From previous experience, air driven grinders and cutting tools use a lot of air and I only have a small compressor. I haven't invested much in air tools, due to the need to have a larger compressor, but after spending 4 hours hand-filing, the next day I went out and bought a die grinder and carbide bit. Having to wait for the compressor to recharge after 1 minute of use is time consuming, but nothing compared to wasting the time on hand-filing..

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:33:30 PM »
Please note, these updates are done by a dam good friend of mine who has been doing a fair bit of work for me

On the day we had planned to move the cars around, we got delayed, but we took the opportunity to roll the car out and took the time to give Nick's garage a good clean. To be honest, this was the first time I had actually seen the car outside of the garage in the light, and what a sight to see! Car still needs a buff, but paint work is lovely to look at. Nick also cut up a large workshop bench I gave him ages ago and put a decent top on his garage bench to work off (which is now full already haha).

So we rolled out the beast to load on to the trailer. We moved Nick's car to my place first then my car to the panel beaters.
This car is long! Fits into my garage, but is a bit of a mission to walk around haha.

Nick came around and he started removing the intake manifold, exhaust manifold and other bits to make some room to get some fabrication done.

Re-cap: Previously the T3 adapter had an extension welded on for the Tial 35mm wastegate. This was attached to the old dump pipe for the old Holset housing.

With Nick moving to the super HX40 with the Garrett T3T4 bored housing, the dump pipe was cut and I had previous tack welded in a 3" pipe to join up the new outlet flange with the old dump pipe. But as you all know, plans change especially as Nick now had a 50mm wastegate to use instead of the smaller 35mm.

The plan was to gut a 50mm hole with a bi-metal holesaw and weld on a new outlet to the new wastegate. Unfortunately, the holesaw couldn't cut through the metal of the T3 extension. Here are some photos of the attempts.

Old Skool Skyline / Re: Stagefumer11's R30 coupe, 56k go build a bridge!!!
« on: December 03, 2014, 10:25:33 PM »
Ill do a cut and paste out of my build thread on nostalgic car :P

SDU Central / SDU Central
« on: July 30, 2014, 11:12:44 AM »
Page is running guys, Helps everyone get to know each others faces and cars.

For one. Probably never will see mine as it will never get finished, haha.

We would really love for this section of the forum to get used more, So something inclined to be a really good discussion should be on here. Maybe not the Facebook page ?

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