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Author Topic: Free Horsepower...  (Read 175535 times)

bigsi

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1350 on: March 01, 2006, 12:41:42 PM »
Quote from: MarioGTR
Your from Stoke on Trent?  As in near Newcastle (the smaller one)?  Near Stone?  In the UK?

Otherwise known as the arse end of the universe?

I used to work there.  What a dreadful place - I did a 9 month tour of duty and I still have nightmares about people in red football jerseys...

Mario.

hey... i livbe in sunderland, (the red shirts) right next to newcastle. easy on the insults eh.

tekin

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mrgtrking
« Reply #1351 on: April 12, 2006, 12:12:36 AM »
hey guys great thread and good info. To tinduct racing great points of discussion. The real answers to your power being delivered cheaply lie
in the hands of some jap. tuners who have been working on turbos and comp.
maps. ie. i have heard of a tuning house in japan who have 1000 or more maps in there software packages for there clients ,depending on their needs.
Anyway regardless ,trying to pick up cheap kw's can have long term probs for you and the engine. The truth is that if you want power you need to
set a goal and come close to it. If you want to reset your goal after this then you basically have to start from the beginning.(costly decision because what you have done needs to be scrapped and new plans drawn).
OK intake , boost and exhaust can help ur power gain , it also makes a bigger
turbo lag, and can get u into some epa trouble. Look at a 911 turbo its quite,has ass kicking power delivery and makes us all look pretty silly in our cars. OK the thing costs 350,000 aus. dollars but its the package u must look at when building a performance car .Anyway hope i havent bored u all to much.(SEE YOU ON THE DARK SIDE)

tekin

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Mr.GTR KING
« Reply #1352 on: April 13, 2006, 01:58:33 AM »
to tinduct great thread. the answer to your question on free horsepower
cheaply without risk. Turn up boost to 11psi , remove air box (do not fit anything) put some chicken wire over the inlet , then gut out your catylic converter and muffler.(this is for a standard factory exhaust)This would have cost nothing so far. See you all on the dark side.

neverhappy

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how to sort out your waste gate prob
« Reply #1353 on: April 25, 2006, 07:30:23 PM »
Quote from: Arven
:idea:

So has anyone got any more information about the whole wastegate actuator rod fix? by bending the rod you simply
change when the wastegate will become full open, and more Boost? i have heard roumours about this, and it sounds good! i will try it once i get my boost guage this weekend.

**Crosses fingers**

ok i had my car back from  a turbo rebuild and it was slow to come on boost and didnt have as much as it used to .i firstly took off the heat shields and then it was all odvious.carfully pop the c clip off and then take off the astuator arm off the waste gate and then see if it was fully closed by pushing it fully toward the front of the car.if it moves that way at all no it wasnt sealing so bend the rod fron the actuator untill u have to slightly pull it so u can get it cack on to its waste gate arm.hold the covers back in place try and make sure your bend was not so severe and is not hitting on anything.well good luck and even a very very slight opening will let a lot of boost out but if u follow what i say and your wastgate is all ok inside u will have a fix

DilutedReality

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$2.50nzd mod
« Reply #1354 on: May 23, 2006, 08:29:48 AM »
heres a almost free mod with a few benifits. raise the bonnet by the hinges...
what i have done on my 33 is brought oversize bolts for the bonnet hinges (you want ones about 4cm longer than stock) and cut up 4 small pieces of garden hose about 4-5cm. its also a good idea to get a friend to help with this.

remove the bolts one side at a time and replace with oversized ones putting the length of hose between the hinge and the bonnet with the bolt going through the hose. tighten the bolt so that the hose is well compressed and it is at a height that suits your preference (mine is about 2cm higher at the hinge than original.

what it does???
i found engine noise increased gotta love the straight six sound!
it also allows air to escape more freely from under the bonnet and allowing more heat to get out, therefore cooler engine bay better operating temps
and also i found it changed the aerodynamics a little (not sure if it to an advantage but it makes the water roll of my windscreen! i have better vision in the wet WITHOUT windscreen wipers)

Downside...
if your ever in a frontal crash..... better duck pretty quick as the bonnet will not be stopped by the base of windscreen BUT heres hoping that the oversized bolts are strong enough not to snap and allow the bonnet to enter the cabin

people tend to ask frequently what happened to my bonnet beacuse it doesnt look flush (IMHO it looks better and closes the gap at front of bonnet)

That Harry Connick Jr Guy

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nope
« Reply #1355 on: May 23, 2006, 08:57:18 AM »
Actually the bonnets are designed to fold in the middle. Open your bonet and look at the middle, note the grooves through the stiffners across the width of the vehicle, now imagine what they are for. Ok well imagine harder, a little harder! Ok thats it! See all clear now! Bonet will fold well before it comes through the cabin.


Quote from: DilutedReality
Downside...
if your ever in a frontal crash..... better duck pretty quick as the bonnet will not be stopped by the base of windscreen BUT heres hoping that the oversized bolts are strong enough not to snap and allow the bonnet to enter the cabin

people tend to ask frequently what happened to my bonnet beacuse it doesnt look flush (IMHO it looks better and closes the gap at front of bonnet)
Anything that doesn\'t Kill you can only maime you for life.

DilutedReality

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1356 on: May 23, 2006, 02:01:35 PM »
oh minta, good point!! guess i dont have to worry about my ducking practise anymore

Wowcar

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1357 on: June 02, 2006, 09:29:46 AM »
Jesus H christ, is this thread still alive ? I remember it starting when I lived in Pukekohe, and that was four years ago!!!

tekin

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1358 on: June 15, 2006, 09:44:17 PM »
HELLO...
Why not remove the f..ken thing all together(Bonnet)
And while u r at it turf back seat, front passenger seat,spare tyre.
Remove front and back bumpers, all the doors, stereo and aircon can go..
Remove all other trim you  no longer required including the dash.
This will lighten your car...then u will get all that noise in your face...
And u will go faster to..
PMSL

tekin

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1359 on: June 15, 2006, 09:46:05 PM »
The above mods would have made u money on ebay.
So it still has great significants to this thread..
Made money and made your car go faster...

erks

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1360 on: October 09, 2006, 01:49:40 PM »
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arven
 
"So has anyone got any more information about the whole wastegate actuator rod fix? by bending the rod you simply
change when the wastegate will become full open, and more Boost? i have heard roumours about this, and it sounds good! i will try it once i get my boost guage this weekend "

G-day felles, can you do this mod on a 32 GTR? How would it work as to my knowledge there are 2 wastegates? ls there another way to raise the boost slightly above 1 bar after you have removed the factory olive (restricter)?

Peter

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1361 on: April 26, 2007, 12:22:39 AM »
Hey Tinduck Racing are you still around? How is your Skyline going, and what did you end up doing to it after generating all this discussion?

If you are around I have one question for you, or for anyone else who can provide an answer....somewhere in the middle of the massive posting there was discussion about a grey plug, near the fuse panel on the driver's side, with two wires coming out, Now it was said that if you short these two wires the check engine light comes on and the ECU goes into diagnostic mode. What interests me though is that it is also said that this resets the ECU. I have been resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for a while now, and if I can reset it by shorting these two, I'll install a switch as some of these people in this posting have as well?

I apologise if this has already been talked about on other threads already, but after reading so much of this one, I don’t think I can read anymore at the moment!

TINDUCK RACING

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1362 on: April 26, 2007, 11:45:53 AM »
Hi Peter,
The old rusty Datsun is still going strong, thanks for asking!

We're still together after nearly seven years, about 178k on the clock and still getting quicker! (probably due to bits falling off....)

Currently (and for the last five years) running 12psi courtesy of a Free Horspower bleed/restrictor setup with standard ceramic turbo and injectors....running slightly lean at WOT in 2nd but nothing gone POP yet!

Non free mods to date are:
Trust downpipe
Decat
HKS Hiper Muffler
Big pod airfilter
100mm core XSpower FMIC
Bailey Motorsport twin piston BOV
HKS fuel cut defencer
Air/Fuel ratio meter
Dual boost gauges
GTR wing/ skirts/ rear spats
JUN front bumper
GTR 17" rims
Adjustable coilovers

.........oops I spent a few dollars....mostly cheap/used parts :)

Oh, to answer your main question, grey plug, tucked up by drivers footwell fusebox.....has several wires going to one end and only two to the other. Bridging these two wires with a paperclip or fitting a switch whilst ignition is on but engine not running, will flash the diag. code on the check light and also reset the ECU. Handy if you are changing grades of fuel or have fitted another mod. The reset ECU will of course advance the ignition, and hence increase power, until the knock sensors back it off, so it makes sense to reset the ECU after every mod or octane change.

Hope this helps, good to see some honest good guys still over there!!

Peter

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1363 on: April 28, 2007, 01:20:37 AM »
Wow, quick reply! :)  Apologies for my slowish reply, as I have been really busy at work and haven’t had a chance to have any “free-time” on the internet. :battle:

12psi reliably on a standard turbo for five years – that’s great! :)  It has given me confidence now, as I am going to “bleed” my boost up to 10psi, once I finally install a FMIC and pod filter. :rolleyes:

Impressive list of mods as well, are you still running the standard ECU with all this on your car?

Thanks for the advice regarding the grey plug – I’ll give it a go and install a switch once I get a chance to work on my car again. The car is tucked away under a cover at the moment and having a rest. It has been my daily driver since 2002, but since my wife bought a Honda Civic November last year (which I have commandeered as my daily driver :laugh: ) the Skyline has taken a well earned rest, and now can be worked on over several weekends, rather than being frantically put back together to go to work with on Mondays! :splat:

BTW - What do you mean by “good to see some honest good guys still over there!!”? We’re all good over here, mate! :laugh:
« Last Edit: May 05, 2007, 03:35:40 PM by Peter »

TINDUCK RACING

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #1364 on: May 05, 2007, 09:47:07 AM »
Hi Peter,

12psi has been fine, but remember this is my daily commuter/ shopping cart.....I don't think for a minute that 12psi would last very long on the track, for instance... :)

ECU is indeed still standard,

Take care all you good guys ;)