Congrats to our New President Anguss!!
Remember to like us on Facebook!! - https://www.facebook.com/skylinesdownunder

Author Topic: Front mount intercooler. All q's unaswered  (Read 2983 times)

Chang

  • RB25DET
  • ****
  • Posts: 383
    • View Profile
Front mount intercooler. All q's unaswered
« on: December 21, 2006, 09:42:25 PM »
Ok lets get started.

Normal charge rate for installation, $350+. My tutorial FREE

Tools needed

-angle grinder
-drill
-wrenches
-flat head screwdriver
-time and patience (most important or you'll be stuffed)

Step 1: Remove Bumper

First of all remove your front bumper. A guide is here http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=44

Step 2: Remove old intercooler
 
Remove all your existing factory side mount intercooler located just in front of your passenger front wheel. Pretty straight forward. Some hints though. Remove your intercooler first. As then you can see all the bracket bolts which helps alot.

Step 3: Modding bumper support/iron

If you want maximum air contact with your intercooler your going to want to cut the bumper support. You'll see many dimpiles running along both sides. Grab an angle grinder and cut through all the lines marked red. You will need to modify your bumper if you do go down this route as you'll want more air going throught to the intercooler (but the bumper will look West Auckland Rangi)

PLEASE NOTE: there has been a long myth about, how you have to cut your bumper suppport. This is not true you do not have to cut it. This means you do not have to cut your bumper either. The only way you need to cut it is if you go for an aftermarket bumper such as a GTR one where the lisence plate sits higher.



Step 4: Modding holes to fit piping

If you look inside your engine bay youll see 2 holes already cut out for the compressor side and return side of your intercooling piping. Grab your angle grinder again and cut through the centre piece to make an oval shape, as shown this allows your compressor side piping to reach your new front mount.



into this



Step 5: Cutting hole for return piping

If you look under your battery above the chassis rail (from your engine bay) you'll see a circle shaped blocked off by a piece of metal (which is for the GTR). Follow that circle to the outside and you'll see it above the chassis rail.  Get your drill and drill around the circle. Its pretty straight forward and you'll see what i mean. The holes about 3.5" big. Make sure after you have drilled it out get some vacuum hoses and cut it in half and wrap it around the edges of the metal or it'll start to rust or get some touch up paint.



Step 6: Installing new cooler

Get your new front mount and mount it in the centre of the bumper support. If you have brackets bolt it on your intercooler and bolt it to the each side of the bumper support. (the bumper support has 3 holes at the top, use the 2 most outer ones to bolt onto your intercooler). The angle of the intercooler is really irrelevant. unless you want most air chill then you want the angle to be at 90 odd degrees, but i couldnt be stuffed and any will do.



Step 7: Installing new cooler continued

Start bolting up your piping with your silicone reducers and joiners. Make sure you tighten the clamps properly or they blow off when you boost which is a big no, no

Step 8: Securing piping

Your return piping that comes from the hole you cut into your turbo elbow has a soft aluminium bracket. You should bend in into the cam cover. (stuff it, it's hard to explain so heres a picture) I never tighten a bolt to it so just make sure it rests on something good.



Step 9: Thorough check/ECU reset

All clamps on (check) all bolts tightened (check). Ok after you finished all that. Best thing to do is to disconnect your battery and reset the ecu. May sound stupid but you may get minimal gains i dont know.

Step 10: FUN FUN FUN

Start her up. Check for any air leaks. Give her a quick boost up and down the street but make sure you got a mates car following you with tools if anything goes wrong:laugh: . but unlikely

Step 11: (optional) New SAFC/tune

If you want, since pressure and inlet temperature is now different from factory. It may be better if you get a tune or install a new Apexi SAFC. This allows good gians (and now you have a cool Apexi Controller G!!!!)

Issues

- now i've fitted it i can get my bonnet to close.
if your bonnet wont close due to your return pipe. Get some chalk or flour and put some on the top of the pipe. Close the bonnet. Now open it up again. You should see white powder on the skeleton of your bonnet. Grab a hammer and bash the crap out of it until it's flat, but too far as it'll dent through your bonnet.

-my radiator fan is hitting my return pipe
well if you got this problem, take off your fan (4 bolts in the centre) or if your just lazy like me just leave it on and strat trimming. Trim just a little of each fan with sharp scissors. make sure you take equal amount off each fan or it'll run unbalanced.

-my car now stalls
if your car is stalling its due to a vacuum leak mainly caused by air leaks, Make sure you tighten everything and you should be ok

Hope this answer all your questions

Any q's just ask
« Last Edit: March 06, 2008, 09:53:15 PM by Chang »

r34raver

  • RB20E
  • *
  • Posts: 36
    • View Profile
    • http://www.ravestyles.com
Front mount intercooler. All q's unaswered
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2008, 09:52:57 AM »
Step 5
Would probably recommend rather than cutting the hole with an angle grinder to use one of the circle cutting drill attachments such as these, spray the edge with some paint then wrap the edge in a rubber edge trim (type used for sheet metal) to tidy it up and protect the intercooler piping from banging against the edge :)
1997 R33 GTS25t Type-M SpecII
1997 Mazda RX-7 Type-RB Bathurst Edition