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Author Topic: Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox  (Read 8456 times)

Chang

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« on: March 13, 2008, 08:44:02 PM »
Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox

This is a complete guide on how to remove an RB20de engine out of an r32 Skyline without removing your gearbon. But this basically goes for the same with Cefiroís, Laurelís and RB20det.

Before I start just a word of caution, SAFETY FIRST please make your car is on level grounds, jack stands are secure and HANDBRAKE on at all appropriate times. I want to help you guys not kill you.

Oh and pictures stop towards the end Sorry

Tools needed:

Wrench tool kit, with nuts sizes being mainly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm
Various wrenches and wrench clamps
Flat and Phillips screw drivers
Engine crane
Car ramp or car jack with stands
Power bar = a normal wrench with a pole at the end of it :D If you know anything about physics T=FD which in simple mans terms means although the same force is applied to undo the bolt, a longer distance (stick) means you have more torque to undo the bolt.

Anyway enough science crap, lets get started

Step 1: Removing battery

First disconnect the battery, remove battery and set a side. (If you failed at this step, STOP!!! Put down everything and do not proceed. You are mildly retarded with cars and should not be allowed near one). Achieving this step however, proceed.

Step 2: Fluid drain

Drain all fluids. Engine, radiator

Engine oil removal: 1x bolt at the bottom of the sump. If you have a sump guard remove it now as your going to remove it anyway.



Radiator coolant removal: At the bottom right of radiator (passenger side) there is one drain plug, unscrew and let drain.

Step 3: Removing the bonnet

(Youíll need 2 people to help remove it) 4x 12mm bolts, 2 on each side at the hinges.

Step 4: Removing radiator

K, by now all your radiator coolant should be empty. You can now start to remove it. Undo the top brackets that secure the radiator to the car. Now undo your radiator hoses that go to your engine, one at top and one on bottom.

I found out that your fan shroud blocks you removing the radiator, so remove it. Itís secured with 4x Phillip screw one at each corner. Now it should be separate from the radiator, pull your radiator out now, then your shroud.

Then if you wish, remove your engine fan, 4x 10mm bolts in the centre of it.



Step 5: Removing the guard (optional)

(Passenger guard) It may seem like a hassle and you donít have to do this but it makes life a lot easier when you remove the loom (Trust me, it is). Itís just approx 10x 10mm bolts to remove.

Step 6: Unplugging loom

Go inside the car and at the passenger side foot well, there is a plastic cover remove it and there lies the heart of the engine ďthe ECUĒ. Thereís 3x 10mm bolts securing it to the car. Thereís also 1x 10mm centre nut to remove the ECU from the harness. Remove ECU and set aside. Surrounding the ECU are various plugs and clips. Remove all surround plugs and clips that go along with the harness.



If you have removed your guard you can see the loom above your left wheel. You can start to pull it now through the firewall. While pulling if you canít pull it through, donít yank on it anymore, go back in the cabin of car to see if there are blockages to the loom and undo any necessary plugs.

Now gently feed loom through firewall and bobís ya uncle.



K removing loom in engine bay. Thereís one plug on your AFM remove that also there are 2 plugs that go into your air con pump remove that also. Thereís also one that goes onto your wiper motor, and one oxygen sensor located on your dump pipe. The final plug is where your first loom meets your main fuse box loom, you have to unplug that one too.

Now go to the fuse box section of your engine bay. Remove the negative terminal, which should be secured to the chassis then into your engine block (right behind the alternator). Also remove started motor wiring, alternator wiring and a few other nitty gritty plugs

You should now look like this



Step 7: Removing exhaust / intercooler piping / piping

K, now your next step is to separate the engine from the exhaust. There are 3x (12 or 14mm) bolts at the dump pipe that connects to your front pipe. You have to get under the car to undo these bolts.



For RB20de: Start by removing intake pipe, thereís 2x 12mm bolts that secure your intake to a bracket, remove them and the various other hose clamps and done, yank that mother off.

For RB20det: Remove your intercooler pipes, from the turbo elbow to the throttle body. And also remove your j pipe. The j pipe has 2x 10mm bolts secured to a bracket, also remove various hose clamps.

NOTE: It is important that you seal up any intercooler holes or any other holes that screws or bolts can fall into, donít find that out the hard way.

Step 8: Removing air con / Power steering pumps

K now in the right side of the engine bay (passenger side) near the front of the engine you can see the power steering pump and air con pump which need to be removed. You can either

A) Remove all power steering lines from the reservoir to the pump and do the same thing with the air con line. But if you do, do this step youíll need to drain all your power steering fluid out first.

(OR)

B) Remove the power steering pump and air con pump together by unbolting 6x 12mm bolts from the engine. I prefer this option as itís clean and simple and that way you donít need to remove the power steering fluid, and get oils stains all over the driveway.

Step 9: Separating the gearbox from engine.

K before you start on the gearbox, remove the starter motor. Itís located behind the oil filter and looks like a big cylinder if you donít know what it looks like. To remove simply undo 2x 14mm bolts and various plug. These bolts are a bit tricky to get to but an extension wrench with solve it. One bolt is at the top and the other one you have to crawl underneath the car to remove. After removal put aside in a safe place.

Now this step is the step I find the trickiest. Thereís about (6 or 8 bolts) all (12 or 14mm canít remember) that are bolted to your engine on the gearbox (or known as the bellhousing). Now the bottom ones are very easy but itís the top 2 ones that will get you everytime. Everyone has different techniques on removing them.

Best way in my opinion is to, First use a car jack and jack up the engine pulley (use a piece of soft wood or something to prevent damage). This allows you the engine to pivot on the engine mounts and just give you that extra bit more space and allow you to see the bolts. Then get one long extension wrench OR bolt one wrench extension after the other to make a very long wrench extension to reach the bolts.

Now with all the bolts off you can separate the gearbox. I like to give it a tap around the edges with my trusty friend ďThe HammerĒ. With a bit of twisting and rotating you should now see it separating.

Sounds tricky I know and it is, it never gets easier.

Step 10: Engine mounts bolts

You can tackle this step 2 ways wither way is fine up to you.

1st Way: Now there are 2x 14mm bolts one on each side of the engine that secure the engine onto the engine mounts. These bolts are quite tricky to get into as thereís a lot of pipes etc blocking your wrench to get into the bolt. But if you followed my previous steps you should be fine.

2nd Way: You can go underneath the engine mounts and remove 1x 14mm bolt on each side. This step is alot easier as by removing these bolts, the mounts come out with the engine at the same time.

But the choice is in your hands.

Step 11: Removing engine

Now the fun part pfft. Start cranking the engine crane and slowly lift the engine. Once you get some slack in the chains remove one of your engine mounts (either side it doesnít matter) 4x 12mm bolts.

Now since you havenít removed your gearbox but separated it, while lifting it out wriggle it to separate it, donít hoist the engine and gearbox out when the gearbox is still attached to engine. Damage is no good. It hurts your wallet.

If your car lifts along with the engine make sure you check for any bolts you havenít undone. If it successful lifting out start tilting the front of the engine more upwards. Thereís no real way of doing this just more trail and error. Now once the engine is lifted clear enough for the engine to remove, you can either

A) Release the handbrake and roll the car backwards

(OR)

B) Pull the crane + engine away from the car, up to you really.

Now you should have your engine out of the car itís quite simple really, putting it back in is just the reverse process of this

If youíre doing an RB20de to DET conversion just make sure you change the fuel pump & ECU to/from a turbo one, or upgrade to aftermarket. Also your front pipe is different on a N/A to a turbo one so will also need to be changed.

Anyway Iíve said 1667 words now, my fingers are bleeding and Iím sure youíre tired of reading. ENJOY your engine conversion. I know I didnít :)

Flynlw

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #1 on: July 14, 2010, 06:44:10 PM »
Awsome Br0, Just wanting to know is there any replacements 4 a rb20det 2 ay rb25det??

westybob

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2010, 05:51:23 AM »
Quote from: Flynlw;501761
Awsome Br0, Just wanting to know is there any replacements 4 a rb20det 2 ay rb25det??
Yep RB25DET RB26DETT RB30/25 can all be used - its just time and money (obviously as power goes up you will need to think about uprating the transmission and brakes etc)!

SKDSUP

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2011, 07:43:40 PM »
im sure this applies to RB20E also? im puttin a rb25det neo in my laurel, if i buy an RB25det dump pipe and front pipe, will that bolt up to my existing RBE exhaust? thanks
732-

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dimaat

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2011, 08:09:04 PM »
It may do but i really suggest you get a proper size exhaust.  the last thing you want is to put anything smaller than a 2.5inch exhaust on a turbo engine

live4liners

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #5 on: April 06, 2011, 10:03:53 AM »
agreed. but due to extra engine height, and all the extra pipes your swapping around, i doubt theyll bolt back up to where they were before. theyll prob need some sort of adjustment and re welding

SKDSUP

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2011, 07:07:23 PM »
When removing loom, im a little confused on what to remove, do i have to remove all loom from around the fuse box area, all the way behind the drivers side front guard, back to behind the dash too? im putting a complete loom from er34 in c33. will pisss me off if i have to remove loom behind dash
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live4liners

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Removing RB20de / RB20det / without gearbox
« Reply #7 on: April 12, 2011, 10:44:25 PM »
this thread only refers to engine loom. and id imagine since your only doing engine swap, the same would apply. I used this manual just on new years for my new engine, but instead of removing the loom i just unplugged it all and dangled it off the side of the car. you might find a lot of the things still line up.
going from rb20de to rb30de with rb25det head, the only thing i had to change were the injector plugs, i just cut them off and soldered on some side feed plugs. (and i guess technically i havnt used the vvt but that would also need to be wired up.
but despite being quite a different engine, nearly the whole loom was re usable and interchangeable.