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Author Topic: just another A31  (Read 15030 times)

Andy14

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« Reply #45 on: March 16, 2014, 09:53:43 PM »
Im using generic high tensile bolts from waitemata hydraulics for my clutch, flywheel and gearbox bolts. Its in my drift car, done about 5 days and never had a problem. It would be a whole lot cheeper too, probally $30 for the whole lot.

promaori

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« Reply #46 on: March 17, 2014, 12:30:25 AM »
Quote from: Andy14;624923
Im using generic high tensile bolts from waitemata hydraulics for my clutch, flywheel and gearbox bolts. Its in my drift car, done about 5 days and never had a problem. It would be a whole lot cheeper too, probally $30 for the whole lot.


Yeah I figured that it wouldn't be much of an issue as long as I wasn't thrashing the crap out of it. But glad to hear you're not having issues doing it in a drift car lol.

promaori

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« Reply #47 on: March 17, 2014, 12:36:45 PM »
My question is though, how long can non-oem flywheel bolts be? My custom ones are longer by like 5mm. Same thread and diameter though

Andy14

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« Reply #48 on: March 17, 2014, 07:02:31 PM »
run the bolts down into the flywheel and see if the bottom out first or they do up against the underside of the head. Ideally you want them to still nip up under the head than bottom out. and dont use mismatched screws around the flywheel as it might unbalance the flywheel.

promaori

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« Reply #49 on: March 18, 2014, 09:38:40 AM »
I got a whole set made up by a mate whose converted a cef before but was surprised they were longer. Posibly going to put it in Thursday night friday if someone keen/owns a gear puller in South Auckland :)

Andy14

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« Reply #50 on: March 18, 2014, 07:28:25 PM »
what do you need a gear puller for?

promaori

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« Reply #51 on: March 18, 2014, 08:49:49 PM »
Have to change center flange/hub over on driveshaft from skyline to cef as they are different diameters. The hub is on a spline? Which requires a gear puller to take off.

downtrail

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« Reply #52 on: March 19, 2014, 08:19:16 AM »
shouldnt need a gear puller they come off easy but you may want to get it ballenced after tho
----->UNLIKE OTHER FORMS OF SPORT DRIFTING REQUIRES THE USE OF TWO BALLS<-----

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promaori

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« Reply #53 on: March 19, 2014, 09:44:01 AM »
Then mines stuck on lol. Tried to pull it off and its not budging.

EDIT* Shortly after posting this, I went and tried to pry it off and low and behold, it came off with ease. Perhaps they removed it at Beatty's. But I was wondering whether it would need balancing due to the nature of it. It seems to only go on straight and sit identically to the one I assume would be on the automatic driveshaft. Will see if it's balanced when I throw it in from tomorrow night onwards... (at least thats the plan)
« Last Edit: March 19, 2014, 07:47:04 PM by promaori »

downtrail

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« Reply #54 on: March 21, 2014, 01:14:15 PM »
Quote from: promaori;624961
Then mines stuck on lol. Tried to pull it off and its not budging.

EDIT* Shortly after posting this, I went and tried to pry it off and low and behold, it came off with ease. Perhaps they removed it at Beatty's. But I was wondering whether it would need balancing due to the nature of it. It seems to only go on straight and sit identically to the one I assume would be on the automatic driveshaft. Will see if it's balanced when I throw it in from tomorrow night onwards... (at least thats the plan)


its more the thing with joining 2 different shafts together ie not a matched pair that will be your problem. This is what im assuming your doing lol
----->UNLIKE OTHER FORMS OF SPORT DRIFTING REQUIRES THE USE OF TWO BALLS<-----

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promaori

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« Reply #55 on: March 21, 2014, 06:50:53 PM »
Quote from: downtrail;625034
its more the thing with joining 2 different shafts together ie not a matched pair that will be your problem. This is what im assuming your doing lol


haha yeah thats exactly what im doing. The manual driveshaft has a bigger weight on it by the looks of things. but driveshafts are easy to take off, so could be something I can get balanced later. Currently stuck on the spigot bush. Trying to drill it now as borrowing a pretty mint drill, was using a dremel to cut the bush but it's proving rather tedious right now and cold chiseling it doesn't seem to be helping. Haven't got the correct tools to attempt the hydraulic method of stuffing with grease and hammering it out, so if someone has those tools... :D

promaori

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« Reply #56 on: March 24, 2014, 10:52:28 AM »
Finish putting it in and bolting it up last night. Clutch cyl was dicking around but turned out the rod was incorrectly set too long. Rectified it by spinning pin to the end of the thread. Now you have to bring pedal out almost the whole way in order to engage clutch.

Also, the driveshaft flange was put on a few teeth out so I have to take driveshaft out and properly attached the flange.

promaori

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« Reply #57 on: March 24, 2014, 09:59:59 PM »
So tonight I've taken out the driveshaft and correctly set the flange to the right position. Still seems to be driving grainy, but may be just since i haven't driven another rb manual before. Fixed the clutch pedal by adjusting it a bit more and spraying some WD40 on the spring because it seems quite hesitate to spring back. Installed my manual speedo cluster. Looks good :D Pics tomorrow

promaori

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« Reply #58 on: March 27, 2014, 12:30:53 PM »
Just an update of the list of things I need to do now in order to finalize the manual conversion:

-Source and install factory gearbox crossmember (B-Stamp)
-Get another R32 gts-t driveshaft as mine scraps on the trans dust cover
-Replace flywheel bolts.
-install bolts to make sure lower sandwich plate doesn't fall off while driving :P

Tomy255

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« Reply #59 on: March 27, 2014, 01:09:56 PM »
Any chance you took pictures while doing the conversion? Make a DIY thread :)