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Author Topic: [ARCHIVE]: Auto Diagnostics  (Read 1668 times)


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[ARCHIVE]: Auto Diagnostics
« on: June 09, 2001, 09:25:15 PM »
Reel Zone
EZ Board Global User
(5/31/00 9:02:43 am)
Reply  Auto diagnostics
 I have found a diagnostic routine for the auto box on another Nissan site. Most of the diagnostic routines are very similar even though the cars are different models.

So, here it is. I have not yet been able to verify if this works in a R32.

1. Have the car at normal temperature in Park with the overdrive on

2. Start the engine - the power light will go out after 2 seconds

3. Turn the ignition off

4. Move the selector to Drive (you may have to use the push button release)

5. Overdrive off

6. Wait 2 seconds, and turn the ignition on

7. Wait 2 seconds and move the selector to 2

8. Overdrive on

9. Move the selector to 1

10. Overdrive Off

11. Press the accelerator fully and release

12. Hopefully the power light will flash out a series of 10 or 11 flashes.

Anyone experiment with the above (and variations) to confirm?

User yet to create ID
(6/3/00 8:58:16 pm)
Reply  Auto trans fault codes
 I have tryed the above method of geting fault codes from the trans and works in my 89 R32.
Has anyone got a list of fault codes for the trans and the engin computer?

Reel Zone
EZ Board Global User
(6/4/00 10:21:13 am)
Reply  Re: Auto trans fault codes
 Great it works!

Here are the auto trans codes.

The sequence starts with one long flash. If everything is OK, this will be followed by ten short flashes.

Errors are indicated by a long flash in the sequence of short flashes.

1st flash longer: revolution sensor shorted or disconected
2nd flash longer: speed sensor shorted or disconected
3rd flash longer: throttle sensor shorted or disconected
4th flash longer: shift solenoid A shorted or disconected
5th flash longer: shift solenoid B shorted or disconected
6th flash longer: overrun clutch solenoid shorted or disconected
7th flash longer: lockup solenoid shorted or disconected
8th flash longer: fluid temperature sensor is disconected or the control unit power source is damaged
9th flash longer: engine revolution sensor shorted or disconected
10th flash longer: line pressure solenoid shorted or disconected

All flashes the same with no long start flash: battery voltage low, has been recently disconected or control unit has just been reconected.

ECU Diagnostic Codes:

11 Crankshaft position sensor
12 MAF sensor circuit
13 Coolant temperature circuit
14 Vehicle speed sensor circuit
21 Ignition circuit
31 ECU (ouch!)
32 EGR
33 Heated oxygen sensor circuit
34 Knock sensor
35 EGR temperature circuit
42 Fuel temperature circuit
43 Throttle position circuit
45 Injector leak
51 Ignition circuit
53 Heated oxygen sensor
54 Auto signal to ECU
55 All OK

Turn the ignition off to put the ECU back to normal.

There is also a O2 sensor test in real time available.
Do the same procedure as above to get the ECU into mode 2 (single LED ECU) or mode 1 (dual LED ECU's)

Start the engine.

Warm the engine, and then run under no load at 2000 rpm for the test.

Single LEDs: on = lean, off = rich
Dual LED's: green LED on = lean, green LED off = rich

Go by the trend shown, e.g. mostly on = lean, mostly off = rich. The LED should be flashing between 5-10 times per 10 seconds under normal conditions.

Edited by Reel Zone at: 6/5/00 4:08:25 pm
User yet to create ID
(6/4/00 6:06:24 pm)
Reply  Fault codes
 Thanks for the info!
My trans ECU reports all ok.
Have not tryed the O2 sensor test yet.
The engine ECU in my car is the type with 1 LED.
I know how to get into the mode that flashes out
fault codes but I am not sure what mode number this
is or what other modes you can get into?
Does anyone have full info on this?
Reel Zone
EZ Board Global User
(6/4/00 6:25:29 pm)
Reply  Re: Fault codes and modes
 The single LED ECU has only two modes - normal (mode 1) and diagnostics (mode 2)

It's only the ECUs with two LEDs that have five modes, we are not really missing out on much vital stuff with the single LED version.

The five modes are:

mode 1: monitors the exhaust gas oxygen sensor
mode 2: mixture ratio feedback monitor
mode 3: diagnostics - shows any faults recorded over the past 50 engine start cycles.
mode 4: switch diagnostics (monitors the switching inputs ignition, idle, and vehicle speed)
mode 5: real time diagnosticsc - just like mode 3, only you can run the engine. Any codes are not retained so you need to have someone watching the ECU all the time for this mode.

EZ Board Global User
(6/6/00 12:55:54 am)
Reply  Re: Auto diagnostics
 This is great guys!! but i got a manual r32, what do i do now?????
if any knows how to test the same thing on a manual that would be handy.



User yet to create ID
(6/8/00 12:37:13 am)
Reply  Auto diagnostics
 I don't think you can do this type of test on a manual
trans, but the way for checking the engine ECU should be the same.
Damage case
User yet to create ID
(6/21/00 10:20:24 pm)
Reply  Holding Auto
 Gday, I have just got my car back from being tuned. The guy that did it is a mate of my dads so while he tuned it he cleaned the throttle body and the coils(said they had some corrosion on them).
Everything is running sweet engine wise but my problem is in transmission.

I turn on the ignition and the POWER text on the gear selection dash flashes. 1 long flash then 16 flashes.

My problem is that it will not change gear until it hits at least 3000rpm. When it does change it goes with a bad that the wheels can lose traction(and thats on a normal dry night going straight... gonna be real dodgy with some rain & corners!!!)
It also seems to change up real firm into other gears too. when moving the gearstick it also seems more solid/clunky and not as smooth.

I'm not sure what is going on but i remember some posts on here about the auto trans HOLD and also the "fuse" which can be disconnected to give a harder change.

If anyone has any idea please help.
Greg S
SDU Local User
(6/21/00 11:11:47 pm)
Reply  Re: Holding Auto
 Have had some sim probs with mine in the past, some simple to solve and others major.

First time I had a prob, the trans was changing at weird times and sometimes not at all, that turned out to be the trans computer (bugger!!)

Second and more recent prob I had was when I picked my car up from the car painters, the power light was flashing on and off at stupid times, and the changes were also funny, luckily, I solved the prob, by disconnecting the battery and leaving it off for a while, then reconnecting it, it basically reset everything, it must have got upset at some stage.

Actually, the next time my auto plays up, I'm binning it, and getting what I should have got in the 1st place, MANUAL

Maybe u can try it if u haven't already, it too might have thrown a wobbly at the service.

Edited by Greg S at: 6/21/00 11:13:52 pm
EZ Board Global User
(6/22/00 2:29:01 am)
Reply  Re: Holding Auto
 Damage Case

According to Reel Zone's post above, your problem is with the speed sensor. NFI where it is.

My auto box does the occasional refuse to shift to second from first. I have to hit hold to get it to upshift, or move the shift lever to 2nd, before it'll work. If I knew where the auto computer was I could check the connectors for dirt etc. Anyone knows where it is?
EZ Board Global User
(6/22/00 11:10:04 am)
Reply  Re: Holding Auto
the automatic computer in on the drivers side kick panel, i.e. in the exect same place as the ECU, but on the Drivers side.

Damage case
User yet to create ID
(6/22/00 6:51:12 pm)
Reply  Diagnostics
 Hey i have just been checking out the Archived forums. I found in the Good tips section some codes which could fit my problem. In the codes:
Auto Diagnostics
Code Description
111 Inhibitor Switch
112 Vhcl Speed Sen A/T
113 A/T 1st Signal
114 A/T 2nd Signal
115 A/T 3rd Signal
116 A/T 4th Signal
118 Shift Solenoid/V A
121 Shift Solenoid/V B
123 Overrun Clutch S/V
124 Tor Conv Clutch Sv
125 Line Pressure S/V
126 Thrtl Posi Sen A/T
127 Engine Speed Sig
128 Fluid Temp Sensor

The 116 A/T 4th Signal would be what the power light flashes out to me.(Assuming 1 long flash 16 small flashes of POWER text).

So does anyone know about this? How do I fix it?
Reel Zone
EZ Board Global User
(6/22/00 7:25:11 pm)
Reply  Re: Diagnostics
 Those three digit numbers (really four!) are flashed on the ECU LED, not the auto's power light. I also suspect they come from a generation of the Nissan ECU that is a bit more advanced than whats in the R32.

One of the first things I suggest to people with auto trouble is to change the auto fluid, and inspect and clean the filter tray. The fluid is usually thrashed to death in Skylines as the cooler is reasonably small, which causes the fluid to get quite hot.

Also remember the diagnostics are to test if sensors are working correctly - it won't tell you if there is some problem with the valve body etc (never pulled a Nissan apart, but have had some stuff to do with C4's)Real diagnostics with autos used to be done with pressure gauges and was really messy.

Anyway, if the fluid change doesn't work, go to an auto specialist rather than a local workshop. Let us know what any outcomes are, good luck!

Damage case
User yet to create ID
(6/22/00 9:33:57 pm)
Reply  Auto ECU
 Cheers reel zone, I was just thinking the power light might mirror the auto ecu led as the exhaust temp light mirrors the ecu led.just seemed odd it flashed out a certain sequence.
anyway i disconnected the battery last night. hopefully everything will be reset by the morning, and hopefully it will fix it. I'll keep posting anyway...
Damage case
User yet to create ID
(6/23/00 10:52:15 am)
Reply  Reset
 Ok well i reset the ecu's. It seemed a little smoother but still has the problem. It changes smoother if i take it up to about 4-4500rpm.
I pulled out the Auto ECU from the kickpanel and there is no LED.. So i guess the flashing POWER does mean something!! Does anyone know what?

R32 GTS25.

Fluid is sweet, was changed couple of months ago. And i checked the level this morning and theres plenty in there.