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Author Topic: Free Horsepower...  (Read 165387 times)

unfamilia

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Re: Re: Re: TinDuck
« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2001, 10:56:56 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by Merli


When was this Rowan?

Last time I visited Con (few days ago), Both of Mario's GTRs were there... I didn't look in the engine bay of his R33, but last time I looked (about a week ago), the engine was still being worked on?

There is another R33 GTR like you described with rego AWB, which is a monster as well... It has the same paint colour as Mario's R33, and had big gold wheels as well...

Mario, you got your R33 back have you? How's the lawsuit looking for the R34? I saw the bellhousing for the gearbox and it looks like it would have made quite a noise :)


--
Andrew Ho


This was a few months back by the way! :)

MFX_R33

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #16 on: September 06, 2001, 11:17:24 AM »
I installed my own solonoid controlled bleed valve and found standard boost was 5psi till 4500rpm then jumped to 7psi. With the bleed I increased max boost to 10psi but the jup was still there. I have now disconnected and blocked off the factory solonoid (already t-pieced into the actuator line) and now the car only runs 5psi with the switch off but 10psi all the way through the revs with the switch on. Bottom end power is up by heaps.

This may be common knowledge but I had to find it out the hard way.

TINDUCK RACING

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bleeders.....
« Reply #17 on: September 06, 2001, 11:29:21 AM »
.....not common knowledge to everyone MFX....
.....any help is appreciated.
....I put in a bleed in parrallel to the factory solenoid and there is still a noticeable jump....so now I will try bypassing it altogether....

     PS: I have got the valve bleeding off to a return between the airflow meter and the turbo ( like the factory solenoid does) ...I assume this is better than bleeding to free air????

    PPS: when using a bleed to fool the wastegate actuator into seeing less pressure, surely some of the increased boost created just escapes out of the bleed you just put in, or am I missing something??

           Cheers,
                       Jon

Asidbyrne

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bleed valve
« Reply #18 on: September 06, 2001, 12:10:33 PM »
I have installed the turbo xcess hpbc and it goes in the line from the pipe just out from the turbo to the wastegate. The factory solenoid has been plugged and a FCD installed. Boost is set at abt 12 psi with an intentional spike at 12.5psi. No problems, peak boost from about 3500 in 1st and 3000 in 2nd.
Never had any probs with the jump

err only one of the solenoid lines is plugged, the higher one that originally came from the turbo out pipe

All dynoed and reliable with an apexi safcs.

Pod filters a bit of a problem since r33's dont seem to have space for a cold air duct. I just put one in and boxed it up with only a small hole behind th elamp to feed it. But temp difference inside and outside the box is noticeablt different especially at running temps. BTW box was initially a foam partition from UAS for 90 dollars, friend saw and bought 1 metre square of the same stuff from a rubber store for 10AD. So with the excess i amde a box out of it. Seems to work fine. Theoretically sound but butt dyno says nothing.

My boost pressure is measures off a t-piece from the manifold. Dunno if that is right but that was the way my  mech did  it.


I alwaysuse mobil1 bcos it is the cheapest most recommended and most tried oil i know. Prob better ones out there but they are a bit pricey and mobil 1 seems good.

TINDUCK RACING

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #19 on: September 06, 2001, 12:24:45 PM »
cheers asid, top reply mate.
 ....which grade mobil1 do you use, the 0w40 or the 15w50 ?
 .....weird, but over here mobil1 is about the most expensive synthetic you can buy, at 34 for 4 litres against 25 for 5 litres on other good brands....
     cheers,
                 Jon

unfamilia

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #20 on: September 06, 2001, 12:37:41 PM »
indeed a good thread with some valuable replies..

heres a question for you all:

since installing the bleed valve in my familia, my boost can be inscreased to about 13psi before it hits boost/fuel cut and you need to bump it down, but the car doesnt feel as strong (even at high boost level) than it did before the valve was installed...

The INITIAL power you get when the turbo spools up to full boost is a little punchier, but its like there is a MASSIVE flatspot after the initial rush of boost..

is this common ? Is there a way to have the boost curve work properly?

I lthink that i need to have the thing tuned properly, maybe reset my ECU,  consider more fuel maybe?

Thanks

Rowan

MFX_R33

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #21 on: September 06, 2001, 03:03:50 PM »
Jon: I actually have my bleed venting to the atmosphere. I probably should plumb it back in but I was in a hurry to get it done at the time and I havn't had any problems so far.

Rowan: This does sound strange, but one of my friend has a Ford Laser TX3 which has basically the same engine and drive line as the familia. We boosted his up and he often had problems with the car hitting the boost cut at about 14psi (and sometimes earlier). He has since gotten a unichip and that made a huge difference to the power delivery and really smoothed out the power curve.

unfamilia

  • Guest
Free Horsepower...
« Reply #22 on: September 06, 2001, 03:08:18 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by MFX_R33

Rowan: This does sound strange, but one of my friend has a Ford Laser TX3 which has basically the same engine and drive line as the familia. We boosted his up and he often had problems with the car hitting the boost cut at about 14psi (and sometimes earlier). He has since gotten a unichip and that made a huge difference to the power delivery and really smoothed out the power curve.



Yes, they are both based on the same engine, although the TX3 is de-tuned for AU ( boo! )..

The problem with getting a unichip is that I am looking at selling the car, so i dont really want to buy any more mods :(

But thanks for the info, i really do think its related to the bleed valve, although another mate of mine has one on his Tx3 and it runs fine! :(

MFX_R33

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #23 on: September 06, 2001, 03:23:34 PM »
Rowan:
Have you tried playing with the restrictor before your bleed (do you have one?). If my memory serves me correctly if your restrictor is too small (or is it large?) your boost will spike before it settles. This could also be your flat spot. If you use a ball valve to act as your restrictor and start with it fully open and gradually close it you may have some luvk with your problem.



Another issue that I raised in another thread is that of removing the speed cut. I have been informed about cutting wire 53 from the ECU (thanks Jon) . Has anyone done this? Results? Also how are the wires numbered, so I make sure I cut the right one?

unfamilia

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #24 on: September 06, 2001, 03:29:53 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by MFX_R33
Rowan:
Have you tried playing with the restrictor before your bleed (do you have one?). If my memory serves me correctly if your restrictor is too small (or is it large?) your boost will spike before it settles. This could also be your flat spot. If you use a ball valve to act as your restrictor and start with it fully open and gradually close it you may have some luvk with your problem.

Another issue that I raised in another thread is that of removing the speed cut. I have been informed about cutting wire 53 from the ECU (thanks Jon) . Has anyone done this? Results? Also how are the wires numbered, so I make sure I cut the right one?


Thanks for the info - if i knew what you were on about id probably be of more help to diagnose the issue - but i wont kid anyone, im not the most mechanically minded person - i installed my front mounted intercooler - and that i thought was a rather big deal..

i dont know what to look for with what you just said - i might take somephotos tho if i can get a digi cam?




as for speed limiter - im limited to 180 as well in the familia, but c'mon - when are you actually going to go post 180k/hr?  unless of  course you track race on a track with a REAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAALY bull**** long straight ( in a bull**** quick car ? :P )

Blue T

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #25 on: September 06, 2001, 05:12:20 PM »
Wow where do I start:eek:
Good pod filter good 3 inch exhaust and bleed valve.
This is about as far as Ive gone and without an aftermarket computer to tune it its really difficult to get it right, the more it goes out of the standard trim the more the normal comp has problems!:rolleyes: Have heaps of low end and midrange power but I dont think Ive got the fueling right for the top end hence the need for a computer to handle this. The standard r33 has problems with getting enough fuel for high boost levels up to 14lb you really need bigger injectors and bigger fuel pump. The bleed valve is a very blunt instrument at the best of times .
To really get the most of even a standard mod level you need some tuning ability with the computer:splat: so you end up against a brick wall with the standard chip.
Hope this helps :idea:

james-r33

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number 53 wire
« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2001, 07:21:34 PM »
hi there,

just one question dose cutting number 53 wire work on a non turbo r33 ?

  Where is number 53 wire ?

  :laugh: :idea:

David Kemps

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #27 on: September 06, 2001, 09:30:27 PM »
i kno some of u guys reckon that cutting the speed sensor wire stuffs up hicas and has adverse affects but i have cut the wire a few months ago and everything works fine in my car, and so have many other people.

I have no limiter now at 180 because i have gone over 200kph, (on a race track of course) and my hicas still works fine, the light does not flicker and operates fine and the HICAS diagnostics does not pick up the speed sensor wire as being disconnected.

now my explanation for this is that the HICAS computer underneath the parcel tray will have a separate speed sensor wire going to it and that the speed sensor wire going into the engine computer is just for controlling the speed limiter only.

so after seeing personally what cutting the wire does i cannot see the point in spending $200.

i have a switch set up anyway so i can switch it on and off if i want.


the only possible thing is that it might affect the ABS on some cars but surely those cars have a separate computer in them to control the ABS and then they would have separate wires going to it from the wheel sensors NOT from the gearbox where the speed sensor wire going to the limiter comes from. They might have a speed sensor wire going from the gearbox as well tho to compare the speed of the wheel sensors with coming from the gearbox but it must be to a separate ECU because some GTS-T's have ABS and they have the same computer as mine just slightly modified for the turbo etc.

quite a few people with R32's and R33's have tried this and all have been successful.

here is the pic of the ecu no's, cut #53 and bye bye speed cut!


Dave

TINDUCK RACING

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Now we're getting somewhere...
« Reply #28 on: September 06, 2001, 11:08:36 PM »
Hi all...
David: thanx for the ecu picture....but just to clarify, as the ecu is mounted vertically, is the left of your picture the uppermost part on the car??....(could go horribly wrong otherwise:D )

Blue T: already blown my budget on a full HKS system...sweet...so fuel pumps and injectors are out of the question right now....playing with a bleed valve at the moment, air filter mod will be next. thanx 4 the help.

MFX : hi, from what you are saying, have you basically taken the pipes off the factory solenoid, and put them onto the bleed valve( in effect) ? I've left it all as standard, but tapped into the in and out pipes to the solenoid, and basically bridged the bleed across them......have wound it out til it peaks at 10psi....does this seem ok ??
    cheers,
             Jon

4Nick8

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Free Horsepower...
« Reply #29 on: September 07, 2001, 08:35:26 AM »
David K,  Yea, the Hicas CPU is under the parcel tray, on the right as you stand at the boot, or just above your head if your lyin in there mess'n with power amplifiers.  I took it out thinking it was an old amp or something, bad move.  Lost the steering also.  There's a similar box on the opposite side, not too sure what that one is, Atessa perhaps?