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Author Topic: Putting a Neo into an R32  (Read 4431 times)

pure_methamphetamachine

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Putting a Neo into an R32
« on: October 04, 2005, 04:44:11 PM »
Moderator: This strictly is not a DIY guide, but it tells people everything they need to know, so I feel it's relevance is in this section.

It bolts straight in. Period.

In terms of things you need to know:

The radiator surround from your r32 will not fit around the viscous fan due to the exact placement / offset of the fan / water pump. RB20 and 26 have the same water pump. RB25 is different.

Use your rb20 power steering pump and itís mounting bracket as well as youíre A/C compressor and itís mounting bracket. This is because the lines for each ie from r32/rb20 to rb25 are different. If you use your original ps and ac, the brackets bolt straight onto the engine (rb25) so you do not have to modify any lines for your systems.

If you use an rb20 box, it will bolt straight onto the neo engine so no further modification is necessary. If you use the neo box, there are a few things:
1.   The gearbox cross member does not line up perfectly. The holes are out by about 10-15mm. I had 5mm flat bar steel welded onto the existing cross member (32 and 34 had identical member btw) and drilled the holes in the flat bar to line up with the vehicles holes. I also placed a piece of drilled flat bar steel between the box and the cross member to ensure the box remained at itís original height as opposed to 5mm lower.
2.   You will need the yoke from the 34 driveshaft to fit into the box. Get the 34 yoke put onto your 32 shaft. This way the drive shaft can still be mid span supported at the factory mounts. Take your full 32 shaft and 34 yoke (or entire 34 shaft) to a driveshaft place (eg BDC) and they will transfer the yokes, lengthen your 32 shaft by 23mm? (from memory), balance and fit it. Take the car as well so they can measure it for the vehicle as doing a straight yoke swap is pointless as the shaft length needs to be altered.
3.   Your 32 slave cylinder can still be used with itís lines, however you must take the rubber section of the line out of itís holding clip (the sprung loaded U clip like on your brake lines) as the slave cylinder acts in the opposite direction as a 32 is a push clutch and the neo is a pull clutch. Or you can find a brake line that has the ability to clip in and reach around to the new cylinder position
4.   If you use your 32 instrument panel, your speedo will no longer work as the 32 uses a cable. The 33 is electric. If you use the 32 panel apparently you can get a speedo cable that will fit in to the box and to your speedo. I do not know of which one if it is at all true. I have only heard there is one out there. You can use your 32 panel with an AVC-R or RSM for your rev and speed if you want. I modified my instrument panel by removing the speedo and tacho and placing an avcr in the instrument panel whilst I tracked down an r34 panel. If you use the 32 panel you MUST place your rb20 coolant temp sensor into the neo engine ie the one for the gauge (the 1 wire sensor NOT the 2 wire sensor you need to swap) as they are calibrated differently and if you use the 34 sensor with a 32 panel, if you ever see the temp gauge reading what SHOULD be normal operating temperature, it is too late. Your engine is cooked. If you use an r34 panel, you need 15-20cm of the wiring loom and the plugs that go into the panel and rewire it. You will also need to run a wire from the ecu to the check engine light wire on the 34 loom as 32ís do not have such a light, but the 34 ecu has an output for one for the 34 panel. You can either look at wiring diagrams from a 32 and a 34 to work out which wire from the 32 loom you need to join to the 34 loom section, or, if you read the back of the panel on the circuitry it actually says what each wire does on the circuit, so you can make a list of what does what with what wire colour for each panel, then join the corresponding wires. If you put in the 34 panel, you MUST run the speed signal wire FROM THE GEARBOX TO THE PANEL, then from the panel to the ecu. The signal is altered by the speedo itself prior to going to the ecu. If you run it the other way round ie box  ecu  speedo the ecu thinks you are doing over 6 times the speed you actually are, so you hit speed shut off at under 30km/h!!! SO, the speed signal wire (SIGNAL OUT) from the GEARBOX goes TO the SIGNAL OUT of the SPEEDO. SIGNAL IN FROM the speedo GOES TO THE ECU. This is because it is the wire that keeps itís name, not the terminal it connects to.

The fuel level sensor for the fuel gauge is the same so you do not need to change that, likewise the regulated earth for the fuel pump is compatible so you can keep all that end r32.

All intercooler piping and fuel lines marry up perfectly too.

If you want to put an r34 diff into your 32 you can (not sure why you would as 32 can have lsd, 34 doesnít). All you have to do is swap the diff carrier (the back plate of the diff that is bolted through the rear sub frame) from your 32 diff to the 34 one. Everything else is the same in terms of drive shaft and axel shaft connection.

If you want r33 or r34 rear brakes, if yours is already 2 pot at the rear, donít bother. They are the same. The only benefit you will get is having newer calipers. If you want to put 34 brakes onto the front, you need r34 disks AND r34 front hub assemblies. The hub assembly bolts straight in, it is identical to the 32 one, with one major exception: where the actual caliper bolts onto the hub. As the 34 uses such a larger disk, and the 32/33/34 4 pot calipers are the same, the bolt mounts on the 34 hub are further out than on the 32 hub so the caliper can get over the disk. The mounts for the hub onto the steering and supports are the same, but the caliper mount is different. So use any r32/33/34 4 pot caliper onto the 34 hub assembly with a 34 disk.

The R32 has one boost pressure sensor. The Neo has 4. One for the gauge, one for fuel mapping, one for ignition mapping and one for boost cut (about 0.9 bar). The vacuum hose that feeds the boost cut sensor can be pulled off and plugged up. The sensor for boost cut will never kick in. But leave the sensor itself plugged in it the loom plug to the sensor or the check engine light comes on.

If you still want to run A/C, you will need the r34 drier sensor and itís plug as the 34 runs a 3 wire sensor and the 32 a 2 wire. 2 wires are joined, the third must be run and added to the engine loom to go to the ecu.

You will need to cut off the 34 AC and PS plugs and swap them for the 32 ones so you can plug them into your 32 AC and PS pumps you fitted.

The internal wiring is the only hard part. You need to place the wires from the 34 loom into the factory 32 internal loom. This is easy if you know what every wire from the 32 and 34 ecuís is and what thus each wire in each plug in the 32 and 34 kick panel is. It is easiest (in my opinion) to cut the internal loom plugs off the 34 loom and off the 32 loom where it went onto the main ecu loom, and attach the 32 plugs onto the 34 ecu loom. This way, if you crash your 32 or whatever and want to put the neo into a new 32 all your wiring is done basically. If you do it the other way, you will also need all the corresponding 34 internal plugs from the internal loom. I say do it the first way. Itís your choice.
 
The only point to really note and emphasise here is this:
The r32 is basic. The 34 had TCS and ABS. Each system in the 34 has itís own computer ie for the
1.   Engine
2.   TCS
3.   ABS

Each computer works both independently, receiving the signals it needs to and consequently processing them, and together. They all talk to each other. If you remove the ABS computer (or in the 32ís case, it was never there to start with) the engine computer does not see a signal from the ABS computer, so it thinks the car has no brakes. And it wonít go. So you need to trick the ECU into thinking that the TCS and ABS computers are their, functioning properly, and sending a signal so the ecu thinks you have never locked up braking or lost traction whilst driving. The information on how to do this, along with spreadsheets of what every wire in the 32 and 34 kick panels is, the plug layouts, ecu pinouts etc is all available via application in writing :D
« Last Edit: October 04, 2005, 04:52:05 PM by pure_methamphetamachine »
pure methamphetamachine
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NFORSA

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hey
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2005, 05:11:10 PM »
nice pic of the Wahon bro : )
shes hot
Red line it.
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pure_methamphetamachine

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Putting a Neo into an R32
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2006, 09:03:25 PM »
Reincarnated....
pure methamphetamachine
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RIP Chris Leicester.
25 / 11 / 2007
I will never forget.
I will always keep my promise.


 

pure_methamphetamachine

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Putting a Neo into an R32
« Reply #3 on: October 09, 2006, 08:27:04 PM »
After a few PM's thought is easier to again reincarnate this.

Regards.
pure methamphetamachine
Team Sleeper
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RIP Chris Leicester.
25 / 11 / 2007
I will never forget.
I will always keep my promise.


 

pure_methamphetamachine

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Putting a Neo into an R32
« Reply #4 on: October 09, 2006, 08:46:04 PM »
Had a few PM's about this so figured I reincarnate it again.
pure methamphetamachine
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RIP Chris Leicester.
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BNR32-GTR

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Putting a Neo into an R32
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2009, 03:53:04 AM »
could you use a r33 vvt loom and ecu? instead
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Gtsttypem1992

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Re: Putting a Neo into an R32
« Reply #6 on: August 08, 2015, 11:37:09 PM »
I need wiring info for r34 neo into my r32 gtst