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Author Topic: just another A31  (Read 13540 times)

promaori

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« Reply #30 on: February 01, 2014, 01:06:37 PM »
shots of my exhaust. sussed it off a mate for $50 and a bottle of V. apparently they're $200 brand new? came with a 2inch silencer, but who wants to silence an RB? not me!




promaori

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« Reply #31 on: February 04, 2014, 07:38:16 PM »
So a bit of progress towards collecting my manual conversion pieces. Going to pick up a custom crossmember to suit an auto-to-manual cefiro conversion (he reckons it'll pass wofs, but im not too sure. guess it depends on how anal the wof guy is), release bearing, clutch fork and clutch fork boot for $70. he also reckons I'll need a manual speedo drive, and possibly the cable. so not too sure how much he'll want for that. but he can also suss me brand new bolts for the job for only $30.

promaori

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« Reply #32 on: February 18, 2014, 10:07:52 PM »
Project Update: Have finally sourced a gearbox. Picked up an RB20DET (RP71C#2) manual gearbox from a guy in Papatoetoe for $300.00. Was hesitant about the purchase at first because I want to get the RB20DET gearbox stamped with RB71C#1 due to the wider gears, larger synchro baulk/rings, but I was convinced by a friend that it'll be great for daily driving, especially when running behind an RB20E.

Have also showered myself with goodies, picking up the manual spigot bush needed for the conversion as well as 3 quart bottles of Redline Heavy Shockproof Gearbox Oil, the guy at BNT reckons RB20DET gearboxes need only 2.4L of oil.

All that is needed now is replacement flywheel bolts. Was considering replacing the bellhousing bolts but not too sure. My Cefiro has just clocked over 267050 k's, but am not sure of the total cost to get full replacement bolts for the conversion. Might mention to my mate to pick up the bellhousing bolts just to be on the safe side.

EDIT** Because I only found out recently that you cannot use the automatic bellhousing bolts on a manual gearbox, I will be getting a set of bellhousing bolts made to spec for fairly cheap.
« Last Edit: February 25, 2014, 10:38:30 PM by promaori »

promaori

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« Reply #33 on: February 25, 2014, 10:44:43 PM »
Update 25/02: I am basically ready to do my conversion. It turns out that the 'free' GTST front driveshaft piece I received off my mate has a notch in the universal joint that had been partially removed (although it still had the caps in place and everything), so I had to visit Beatty's Driveshaft Centre in Wiri, Auckland to get a brand new joint (~$85.00NZD). Direct replacement of the factory joints used by Nissan, but unfortunately for me the joint is a Staked-In design so removing the old one is turning into a mission itself... More than likely will take it back to Beatty's to get them to install it.

EDIT** For those wanting information about the specifications of the joint, the Cap Diameter? is 24.7mm, and the External Length? is 66mm. The model of the joint that I got is a Turret 701006/UD0912T
« Last Edit: February 25, 2014, 10:48:25 PM by promaori »

b00stinz

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« Reply #34 on: February 26, 2014, 04:05:18 PM »
Hey just a thing to remember, when putting all the driveshaft nuts and bolts on, make sure they're all the exact same ones. My car has has a slight vibration off throttle around 100kph on the motorway. I finally got under the car a little while ago and found that one of the 4 bolts holding the diff input shaft to the driveshaft was different! THe guy who did the conversion probably lost one and just chucked a random nut and bolt in place haha

Also it wouldn't hurt to replace your rear main seal of the engine as it's a cheap part and easy to do with the gearbox out and also the rear seal of the gearbox tail (was like $9 for the part) and remember to threadlock the flywheel bolts!
« Last Edit: February 26, 2014, 04:06:43 PM by b00stinz »

promaori

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« Reply #35 on: February 26, 2014, 09:06:54 PM »
Quote from: b00stinz;624503
Hey just a thing to remember, when putting all the driveshaft nuts and bolts on, make sure they're all the exact same ones. My car has has a slight vibration off throttle around 100kph on the motorway. I finally got under the car a little while ago and found that one of the 4 bolts holding the diff input shaft to the driveshaft was different! THe guy who did the conversion probably lost one and just chucked a random nut and bolt in place haha

Also it wouldn't hurt to replace your rear main seal of the engine as it's a cheap part and easy to do with the gearbox out and also the rear seal of the gearbox tail (was like $9 for the part) and remember to threadlock the flywheel bolts!

I plan to reuse the auto driveshaft center flange bolts so hopefully that isn't an issue. The seal on the gearbox I have looks really good, though I guess it wouldn't hurt.

Would anyone here know a place to get a universal joint replaced for like $20-$30? I am replacing the joint as there is a notch and not keen to deal with just reseating the existing joint for now. I have purchased the joint already, but am quoted roughly $65.00+GST and up. It's the staked in joints if anyones interested..

promaori

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« Reply #36 on: March 03, 2014, 08:23:18 PM »
Update: I ended up taking the front shaft into Beatty's Driveshaft Centre on Thursday last week (27-02-2014) to have the Turret universal joint I purchased fitted into it. Picked it up today (03-03-2014) and damn it looks sexy. They've painted it and the joint is mint as biscuits. So now to try and organize that workshop time again...

promaori

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« Reply #37 on: March 15, 2014, 11:00:36 AM »
Update: Still haven't had the chance to use the workshop, so I'm kind of annoyed and will probably try to do it on jack stands unless someone can hook me up and give me a hand putting this gearbox in. I was going to use non-OEM bolts for flywheel and bellhousing as it was much cheaper, however found out from Cockram Nissan that I could get:

RB20 Gearbox Bolts x4 @  ~#18.00
(3 sizes; 08171 0651A, 08071 0601A, 08171 0601A (x2))

RB Pressure Plate/Clutch Bolts x6 @ $15.66

With the Gearbox bolts, Cockram Nissan could only send me 3 of the 4 bolts needed as one of them had to be sourced from Japan, but have said I can miss the bolt as it can be supported by the sump bracket bolt...

However, I priced up the x6 flywheel bolts needed from Nissan and I couldn't afford to pick them up this week... Standard pricing came to ~$150, but with the SDU discount it was $120. Ooosh. So had to flag it on that, but wondering whether high tensile bolts will do the trick whilst I am just throwing it in.

 Using a second-hand Exedy HD clutch ($20) which I picked up alongside a new shiny factory manual speedo cluster ($60) on Wednesday from Tauranga

Pics of the cluster:









Fortunately I'm not using the speedometer, however I'd hate to know how that happened...

So the question is,

Is it safe to use non-OEM flywheel bolts for a short time due to using a second-hand clutch?

Hopefully I can put it in soon... D: :splat:

Tomy255

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« Reply #38 on: March 15, 2014, 01:50:07 PM »
That cluster looks mint! You may aswell do it all in one go man, would be a pain to have to do things twice. I'd personally just wait

A31_25DET

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« Reply #39 on: March 15, 2014, 03:36:31 PM »
how come your not using the speedo? and im with Tomy, do it once, do it right :)

plus from replacing clutches in my old Laurel on axle stands its no fun pulling gearbox off and on lying on your back haha
Current Rides:
1996 R33 GTS25-T
1990 E39A VR4 EVO 0

Nothing better than the feeling of hitting boost.......................and still thinking you have control!!

promaori

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« Reply #40 on: March 15, 2014, 11:23:13 PM »
Quote from: Tomy255;624873
That cluster looks mint! You may aswell do it all in one go man, would be a pain to have to do things twice. I'd personally just wait

Quote from: A31_25DET;624880
how come your not using the speedo? and im with Tomy, do it once, do it right :)

plus from replacing clutches in my old Laurel on axle stands its no fun pulling gearbox off and on lying on your back haha

I suppose... It means waiting a few more months though and I'm already really keen to put it together. Means I can use it as manual and get used to it by raping a few clutches then chuck a decent clutch kit in with new flashy bolts :P Also, I'm using the speedo in my auto cluster as it reads the correct mileage for the vehicle. And the font is non-facelift...
« Last Edit: March 15, 2014, 11:24:14 PM by promaori »

Aubrey107

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« Reply #41 on: March 16, 2014, 09:48:45 AM »
COuldnt you always swap the kms from your cluster to the new cluster and the speedo face as well ? or just wind it to your current kms? Cause that what im planning to do since mine reads about 130,000 when im only done 116,000

promaori

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« Reply #42 on: March 16, 2014, 12:10:13 PM »
That could work, however the way the cluster is designed I can just swap the front cover over and it brings over the manual version of the cluster effectively. It's difficult to explain, but I can offer pictures soon.

Aubrey107

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« Reply #43 on: March 16, 2014, 01:30:21 PM »
Quote from: promaori;624909
That could work, however the way the cluster is designed I can just swap the front cover over and it brings over the manual version of the cluster effectively. It's difficult to explain, but I can offer pictures soon.


Sweet man! would be keen to see some pics :)

promaori

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« Reply #44 on: March 16, 2014, 02:40:42 PM »
Here is the cluster I have with the front piece taken off. Thinking of just swapping it over :)