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Author Topic: rust work  (Read 4841 times)

promaori

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rust work
« on: April 28, 2014, 04:52:26 PM »
Anyone know a reliable and effective panelbeater than can fix some rust on my cef. Will need back and front windscreens taken out I reckon. Rust is located in inside guard, engine bay along seam between inner guard and firewall, both a-pillars, along windscreen pillar on passenger side and back window. Had both fixed professionally earlier, however their fix Isn't so permanent.

Tomy255

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rust work
« Reply #1 on: April 28, 2014, 07:10:08 PM »
Boostinz suggested a place on the north shore for my silvias rust, apache panelbeaters really good prices and quality work. Even took my car back to the wof place for me :P

b00stinz

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« Reply #2 on: April 28, 2014, 08:47:02 PM »
Apache is the man, go see him. Ashfield street in wairau park

westybob

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« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2014, 08:20:11 AM »
Apache fixed my rust - recommended:

444 3013
17 Ashfield St Glenfield

promaori

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« Reply #4 on: April 29, 2014, 04:56:44 PM »
phew hefty drive just for rust work but i'll look into it haha

westybob

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« Reply #5 on: April 30, 2014, 07:48:12 AM »
Quote from: promaori;625782
phew hefty drive just for rust work but i'll look into it haha

Try getting a few quotes from your local panelbeaters. I was happy to pay for a couple of taxi rides to save a few hundred dollars. Most panelbeaters think rust repairs are beneath them and don't really want the work- one quoted me $500 per door - Apache: $250 for both doors.

Hefty drive?!!! Christchurch with just a break for the  ferry is a hefty drive - a trip over the harbour bridge is hardly epic.

b00stinz

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« Reply #6 on: April 30, 2014, 03:23:25 PM »
Mark honestly knows his stuff so well, he's been in the business for ages. Does the work no one else will touch because he knows better than these boutique panelbeaters and glorified shops. He's one of the few old guys left in the business who doesn't just scrap and throw things away. He hardly makes money on jobs we give him, makes most of his money on insurance jobs. He lives a simple life so he doesn't have much overheads so doesn't charge us heaps.
« Last Edit: April 30, 2014, 03:25:28 PM by b00stinz »

promaori

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« Reply #7 on: May 14, 2014, 06:21:44 PM »
Went to see Mark today regarding my rust work. He reckons a lot of it could be fixed by me at home which I'm happy to hear. I'm going to see him on Saturday afternoon to get a better look at the rust on the Cefiro. I might just upload some photos to the forum to show the extent of it. Has anyone had luck cleaning the drain holes along the driver and passenger front windscreen pillars? Need to have a really good clean of the crap to make sure it doesn't continue the issue.

Aubrey107

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« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2014, 11:26:09 AM »
Just when to Apache today to get a quote to fix/repaint my front bumper. Quoted me the the lowest price out of all the other panel beaters I got quotes from. Will defiantly be going to him.

Tomy255

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« Reply #9 on: May 29, 2014, 05:01:59 PM »
How much for the respray? / why not just DIY?

promaori

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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2014, 12:07:32 AM »
I haven't updated this thread at all. I went to see Mark the following weekend and he looked over the work there and said I could most of it myself, and gave me a list of rust work supplies to pick up:

"Emery Paper" or Metal Cloth - Sold at Bunning's for ~$30.00 a roll. (Tough backing so doesn't cut grooves like sandpaper).
Aerosol Fish Oil - Sold at SuperCheap (SCA) (Yes! Even the cheap and nasty will do)
Paint Brushes
Rust Converter (Septone) - Sold at SCA

Out of all the supplies, I didn't buy the Metal cloth as my funds ran out before I could buy some. However I went back the following weekend and he gave a free hands-on tutorial on how to kill it.

Basically sand the loose rust chips away until it's bare metal. Using a container filled with a small amount of the rust converter and a paint brush, dab the rust converter onto the rusted area. Dabbing the area allows the rust converter to get into the metal as opposed to just sitting on the surface. He said he leaves it for roughly ~3 hours, however in this case we left it for like 30 minute. Using another clean paint brush, I dabbed the rust converted areas with black etch primer, to get the primer nice and close to the metal surface. Two or three coats should suffice. Leave to dry.

Once dry, cover the area with the fish oil. This s**t stinks like a fish market, but Mark suggest I just lay it on there. Nope. I wiped down the surfaces where there wasn't converted rust, but didn't wipe enough to remove all the fish oil.

Will be going back the following weekend after Queen's Birthday weekend to get some rust holes plates. Priced up a can with paint to match the cars colour code. $35.00/can from Shane's Car Colours in Papakura. So if you guys need cans, organise a list and I can bring them into town on the Friday's.

b00stinz

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« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2014, 05:44:34 PM »
Haha how many panelbeaters will teach you and help you like that! Most will tell you to get f*cked.

I haven't been down in a while to him but I have an r32 gtr bumper I left there a while ago I still need to pick up... If you know anyone in the market for one, I'm keen to sell it!

A31_25DET

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« Reply #12 on: June 05, 2014, 01:18:56 PM »
don't mean to rain on your parade, but the car colours match didn't work at all for me and I don't blame them at all, as imagine how much your 23/24yr old car has faded over the years
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1990 E39A VR4 EVO 0

Nothing better than the feeling of hitting boost.......................and still thinking you have control!!

promaori

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« Reply #13 on: June 05, 2014, 03:01:36 PM »
Quote from: A31_25DET;626229
don't mean to rain on your parade, but the car colours match didn't work at all for me and I don't blame them at all, as imagine how much your 23/24yr old car has faded over the years


Yeah I was thinking of that when i discussed it with Mark. But he seemed to herald the idea of the cans of paint based on colour code. I'll have a looksie though. Preparation is key to a great finish :)

A31_25DET

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« Reply #14 on: June 06, 2014, 10:09:03 AM »
this is the difference, cans were matched of my factory paint code, but for some reason seemed to have a flake in it lol

Current Rides:
1996 R33 GTS25-T
1990 E39A VR4 EVO 0

Nothing better than the feeling of hitting boost.......................and still thinking you have control!!