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Author Topic: rust work  (Read 4826 times)

Tomy255

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« Reply #15 on: June 06, 2014, 12:17:54 PM »
Just stand really far away :P

Aubrey107

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« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2014, 02:35:48 PM »
Quote from: Tomy255;626154
How much for the respray? / why not just DIY?


Qouted me $200 which was the cheapest by far and I would try attempt it myself but dont' want to stuff it up and want a good finish tbh.

promaori

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« Reply #17 on: June 06, 2014, 05:58:51 PM »
At the end of the day, I'm not too fussed as wanting to eventually get a full car respray anyway.

promaori

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« Reply #18 on: June 07, 2014, 01:17:59 PM »
Today I'm out at Mark's again. Gonna have a hole in the boot plated, but may require the window out to fix the problem completely. This glass guy I know quoted $110.00 to come out and remove/refit. Smith and Smith quoted $170.00. Wondering if $110.00 is really cheap or smith and smith are a-holes. My glass guy used to work for Smith and Smith so he knows their secrets :P

DeadBroke

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« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2014, 07:49:15 PM »
now this is what you call rust! XD

benji-nz

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« Reply #20 on: June 09, 2014, 08:31:03 PM »
Weight reduction
"I ran a 25 turbo on my 20 when I had stock cams. Managed 300whp at 24psi on e85 figured that was the max on that turbo"

promaori

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« Reply #21 on: June 10, 2014, 07:12:45 AM »
That is some flintstone **** right there mate haha

Tomy255

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« Reply #22 on: June 10, 2014, 01:19:13 PM »
Just bog it up g

DeadBroke

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« Reply #23 on: June 10, 2014, 06:07:26 PM »
Where ever you decide to go with this repair, just be weary of the cheaper price if they give you 2. Most panel shops will bog over rust in a heartbeat if that's all the customer wants to pay for.

DeadBroke

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« Reply #24 on: June 10, 2014, 06:09:28 PM »


The rust infected area needs to be cut out to stop it from spreading.  Then a steel patch welded in like so.

promaori

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« Reply #25 on: June 10, 2014, 10:13:50 PM »
Yeah that's similar to what I got done through mark, although the hole in the back window, he welded in a plate in order to keep the sides and bottom firm, and filled it with sealant, to allow flex without cracking.

DeadBroke

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« Reply #26 on: June 10, 2014, 10:23:43 PM »
Aw sweet, it's already done lol.

promaori

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« Reply #27 on: June 11, 2014, 09:32:28 PM »
Yeah lol. I'm kind of annoyed I forgot to take photos of before, steps during and after the fix of each bits of work. The whole keen to get the job done I'm sure, but I can give you guys a sneak peak of what it looks like now and I'm sure you guys can use your imagination. Although, now I'm finding that my car had quite severe condensation over the windscreen vent yesterday when it was parked at Otara. Wondering if I need to pull the guards off with the bonnet and check in the firewall gap for any rust, and maybe give the wiper blades a paint as they're polished from all that use.

promaori

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« Reply #28 on: July 08, 2014, 03:00:05 PM »
So to continue on this thread, I have found more rust causing my passenger floor to be coated in water over a long period of time. I have fixed 75% of the stuff I'm posting, and have yet to get the rust on the A-pillar around the door loom hole.


The rust in the A-pillar, I'm sure its the same on the other side... :(

The following are resting in the air cavity below the wiper cowl and where the fan blower unit gets it's air from:


Along the air cavity towards the wipers


Dat rust in the corner... Haven't tackled it yet, don't know where to start.


Those holes are where the wiper cowl plugs into the metal, I had to remove the plastic socket that the plugs go into.

Halp!! I've already fixed the rust around the plastic bits that the wiper cowl plugs go into, and have resealed them with rubber gasket maker. bucket of water test has proved it's definitely fixed, and shouldn't break again... I have taken all the plastic bits out along the air cavity and cleaned them up and sealed em up so hopefully no rust settles there. This car is turning into a good bodied, rust bucket. :(
« Last Edit: July 08, 2014, 03:02:31 PM by promaori »